FeastivALL features two James Beard-nominated chefs ... and one famous pie

Communion wafers topped with farmer's cheese from Lost Creek Farms

This year’s FeastivALL fundraiser – a rollicking and raucous affair featuring beers and wines paired with an elegant multi-course meal – also will feature a pair of James Beard-nominated West Virginia chefs.

Not only that, but they’ll be preparing a special Appalachian dessert once praised by famed late chef Anthony Bourdain when he visited West Virginia for the episode of “Parts Unknown” he filmed here shortly before his untimely death.  

Mock lemon vinegar pie from Lost Creek Farm

Mike Costello and Amy Dawson, who were named James Beard semifinalists in 2022 for their exclusive on-farm dinner series at Lost Creek Farm in Harrison County, will join a talented roster of local chefs for this year’s event Feb. 7 at the University of Charleston.

For those who are unfamiliar, this annual FestivALL event features a gourmet meal where each course is paired with both a specially selected beer and wine. Guests get to sample both with each course, then vote for their favorite match to determine which spirit “wins” the night. (There are non-alcohol drink options as well.)  

And yes, the evening is every bit as fun as it sounds.

Although this year’s beverage pairings haven’t been announced yet, I can go ahead and whet your appetite with this first peek at the delicious menu in store.

• Amuse bouche: a communion wafer topped with black walnut farmer’s cheese, bourbon-sage apple butter and toasted sage from Lost Creek Farm’s Costello and Dawson
  

• Appetizer: trout cake with ramp remoulade from Chef Madi Risk from Coco’s Kitchen + Cafe
  

• Soup: buttermilk cornbread soup topped with crispy white beans, smoky bacon and onion from Chef Mandy Gum of Carver Culinary Arts
  

• Entrée: stuffed quail with Benton’s country ham risotto, heirloom carrots and red-eye jus from University of Charleston Executive Chef Seth Samples
  

• Dessert: Flossie Hannah’s old-fashioned vinegar pie with maple whipped cream and West Virginia salt from Lost Creek Farms.

Beer and wine compete at FeastivALL

New FestivALL Executive Director Zack Harold is excited about this year’s culinary offerings.

“Every course is a look at Appalachian food traditions through a haute cuisine lens,” he said.

“Our chefs are taking flavors you might have first encountered at your Mamaw’s table and transforming them into something you'd find on the menu at a fine restaurant. We're so excited all these culinary artists have agreed to lend their talents to our event.”

Harold said it’s a special treat to have high-caliber chefs like Costello and Dawson on board this year.

“Mike grew up in the Charleston area and the communion bread recipe he is using for the amuse bouche course comes from his grandmother – and is actually still in use at his grandmother’s old church, Emmanuel Baptist on the West Side,” he told me. “The mock lemon vinegar pie is another recipe that has earned them much acclaim, even being featured by Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown episode on West Virginia.”

Chefs in the kitchen at FeastivALL

While general tickets get you in the door to enjoy all food, drinks, a live auction and art-centric entertainment that evening, special VIP tickets provide access to an exclusive pre-event reception an hour earlier that includes craft cocktails and additional perks.

One of those treats will be a special box of handmade candies from Chef KD Jones, formerly of the Governor’s Mansion and currently at Coco's, who completed a candy-making apprenticeship through the WV Humanities Council, studying under his aunt to learn traditional Appalachian techniques. The candies VIPs receive will include both traditional and modernized takes on classic candies.

Now in its 13^th year, the dinner is FestivALL’s only fundraiser and is a big reason the group is able to provide free, world-class arts programming in Charleston throughout the year. Tickets, which are $130 for general admission or $175 for VIP, can be purchased at feastivallcharleston.com.

Trust me when I say this is a night you don’t want to miss!

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest as “WV Food Guy.” He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.