Cheers to Charleston's Ursus Brew Works

The “El Chupacabras” burger of the month at Ursus Brew Works in Charleston, WV

Enjoy tasty pub grub and craft beers in the old Strand

While it took Charleston’s newest brewery several weeks to ramp up on-site beer production, the food at Ursus Brew Works came out of the gate strong, right from the jump. And it just keeps getting better, as is the Hale Street brewery’s expanding lineup of local craft beers.

Owner Jason Martin at Ursus Brew Works

I’ve popped into Ursus at 207 Hale St. for food and drinks three times now, with each visit better than the last. I’m really digging this new (and two years in the making) addition to downtown Charleston’s bar and restaurant scene.

I met owner Jason Martin over two years ago when he first told me about his ambitious plans to open a new brewery inside what used to be The Strand billiards parlor, which had been vacant for some 20 years. Even though I walked away thinking he was a cool guy – and he seemed extremely dedicated to building his new business the right way – I wasn’t sure he’d be able to pull it off.

Man, was I wrong. He not only did that, but extremely well.

Poutine and pimento cheese at Ursus Brew Works

A military veteran who spent six years in the Air Force, he later met partner Megan, who introduced him to craft beer – and thus “created a monster,” he has said. The more craft beer he drank, the bigger fan he became, so he eventually quit his job (pension and all) to learn how to brew beer professionally at locations in Maryland.

After landing in Charleston, he decided it was time to make a go of it himself.

After securing the space, he hired an interior decorator, jumped into renovations and opened the doors to Ursus Brew Works (named after West Virginia’s state animal, the black bear, or Ursus Americanus) in early March, with an official grand opening and ribbon cutting this past Friday.

The space itself is large and open, with a dining area up front, several beer tanks in a window-filled brewing room on the left and a long bar back on the right. At that bar, you’ll find 14 taps offering a lineup of mostly Ursus brews, with a few other regional beers filling in the blanks.

Beer menu at Ursus Brew Works

While neither of the Ursus IPAs I’ve sampled so far packs quite the hoppy punch I prefer, I have enjoyed almost everything else, including a crisp Belgian Wit, a lighter-than-usual caramely Scotch Ale, a flavorful Mexican Lager and my current obsession, a malty-sweet amber Maibock served in a glass stein.

In the brewery’s kitchen, talented chef Donnie Smith is cranking out a menu of seriously good pub eats that pair well with the beers flowing from those taps. A selection of soups, salads, shareables and sandwiches is packed with several gems.

We’ve enjoyed a platter of poutine (crispy fries smothered in beef gravy and white cheddar cheese curds) and deep-fried pickle spears served with a zesty “smash sauce” that my son likened to Cook Out’s sauce, which he assured me was praise of the highest order. 

Chicken club sandwich from Ursus Brew Works

The classic smash burger with American cheese, caramelized onions, pickles and that same smash sauce on a toasted potato roll is fantastic, and the “El Chupacabras” burger of the month for May (sorry folks, it’s gone now) was unbelievably good. 

Featuring a 50/50 blend of beef and chorizo, this beautiful mess was piled high with sauteed peppers and onions, smashed avocado, pico, Colby Jack cheese, bacon and cilantro aioli for a creation we inhaled in mere minutes.

The crispy fries and thick-cut beer-battered onion rings served alongside our sandwiches were both top-notch. We also loved the restaurant’s ranch and bleu cheese sauces, later learning that all dips and dressings are made in-house. 

Ursus Brew Works inside the old Strand

I usually steer clear of ordering chicken at a restaurant, because most chefs cook the life out of it until it’s chewy and dry, but I can see why so many love the popular chicken club sandwich here.

The marinated and glistening grilled chicken breast was skillfully cooked and dressed with two slices of thick-cut bacon, Swiss cheese, lettuce, tomato, red onion, pickle and honey dijon to deliver bite after satisfying bite.

On the lighter side, the balsamic portabella mushroom wrap stuffed with spinach, red onion, roasted red peppers, crumbled goat cheese and balsamic glaze was a hit as well. 

And while we liked the housemade pimento cheese served with toasted French baguette crostini, we wished it had been a little more creamy and less chunky. But that’s such a minor note on an otherwise stellar visit.

Guests at Ursus Brew Works ribbon-cutting

Other popular items are the Pubchoes (house-made chips loaded with chili, beer cheese, avocado, sour cream and fresh pico) and the garlic-roasted Brussels sprouts (topped with balsamic glaze, crumbled feta cheese and pickled red onion).

There are also vegetarian options, a kid’s menu for the littles, homemade chocolate chip cookies for dessert and additional drinks beyond tap beer that include seltzers, ciders, bottled beers, mimosas, select cocktails and more.

I’m telling you, folks, you gotta check this place out. Well played, Jason!

• IF YOU GO: Ursus Brew Works at 207 Hale St. in Charleston is open from 3 to 9 p.m. Wednesday-Friday, noon to 10 p.m. Saturday and noon to 5 p.m. Sunday. Happy Hour is 3 to 6 p.m. weekdays, and last call for food and drinks is 30 minutes before closing. For more information, visit www.ursusbrewworks.com or visit the brewery’s Facebook page. 

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, X, Instagram and Pinterest as “WV Food Guy.” He can be reached at wvfoodguy@aol.com.