Young chefs shine at market dinner, plus a New Orleans restaurant is coming to town
- Steven Keith
- 3 days ago
- 4 min read
Large-scale farm-to-table dinners are always special to me, whether under the string-lit outdoor pavilion at Capitol Market, in the garden at J.Q. Dickinson Salt-Works or on an actual farm like at Tim & Melody Urbanic’s “Summer Sunday Supper” series at their property in Calhoun County.
When several dozen people come together to enjoy fresh and local gourmet food paired with delicious wines in a charming “elegance meets rustic” setting, you just know guests are going to walk away at the end of the night with happy bellies, full hearts and lasting memories.
But there was something extra special about the recent “Market Table” event I enjoyed at Capitol Market on Sept. 21.
Showcasing the next generation of local chefs, the dinner’s seven-course menu was created and prepared by recent graduates of the culinary program at Carver Career Center who are now working as gainfully employed chefs at some of the region’s finest restaurants.
It was not only exciting to witness the impressive cooking skills these talented young chefs have already acquired in their relative short careers, but also gratifying to see local restaurant owners recognizing, supporting – and most importantly, hiring – these up-and-comers.
And deserving, they are. Just take a gander at the feast nearly 100 of us enjoyed while gathered around long, decorated black-clothed tables surrounded by the colorful plants and flowers filling the market’s outdoor space.
Amuse: Savory chicken mousse with leek pave and a bright lemon-apple gel on a crispy herb cracker – prepared by Justin Rieve and Quintin Bartlett from Sleepy Hollow Golf Club
Starter: A creative chicken galantine with figs, country jam and chestnuts bedazzled with creamy sweet potato pommes anna, mache and tangy mulberry gastrique – made by Buck Samples, Nick Morris and Beck Huffman of 1010 Bridge and Paulie’s Fine Italian
Salad: Arugula and spinach salad with butternut squash, radish, cucumber and garlic-herb croutons dressed with a sweet, salty and savory bacon-maple vinaigrette – created by Michael Masterson from 1010 Bridge
Fish: Monkfish with a briny medley of creamy tomato sauce, leek confit, capers tapenade and fried anchovy – made by Ligia Rizzo and Hollind Zamora from Ristorante Abruzzi
Main: Soy-braised short rib with coconut arancini, carrot-ginger puree and pickled ramp medley – prepared by Travis Oliver, Adrean Oliver and Cordell Gilliam from 1010 Bridge
Amuse: A richly flavored mini blood orange tart with creamy lemon mascarpone mousse and tart raspberry coulis – created by Hillary Haslebacher from Ellen’s Homemade Ice Cream and Cydny Latta from Dancing Dog Ice Cream Café
Dessert: Coffee cake with poached pear, vanilla pastry cream, salted caramel mousse, nut crumble, pear fluid gel and a tuile – courtesy of Presley Cunningham, Krystal Stowers and Sam Reid from Ristorante Abruzzi
While it was a worthy meal from start to finish, the highlights for me were that short rib from the trio at 1010 and the mini blood orange tart from Ellen’s and Dancing Dog.
Even though the short rib wasn’t an Asian dish, per se, it blended those soy, coconut, ginger, carrots and pickled flavors beautifully across every component.
And that dessert I just called out was about as perfect a sweet, creamy and tart bite as you’ll find.
Everyone around us agreed that it was a slam-dunk ending to a beautiful (and delicious!) evening.
If that evening’s dinner was any indication, our local culinary future is extremely bright.
Bourbon Street Bistro coming
Promising to bring “the soul of New Orleans” to Charleston with a menu of authentic Cajun-Creole specialties, owners of the new Bourbon Street Bistro tell me their new restaurant in the old Karubee’s location at 714 Lee St. E. could be open in just over a month.
“Contractors are finishing up through the next couple of weeks, so we should have a soft opening at the end of next month,” said Curtis Workman, a former sous chef at Berry Hills Country Club who is opening the new restaurant with his partner, Angela Louise.
“We are truly grateful for the incredible support and excitement around the launch,” Workman said in a Facebook post also announcing the news. “Your warm welcome means the world, and we can’t wait to introduce Charleston to an authentic taste of New Orleans right here downtown.”
The new restaurant will feature Louisiana favorites like scratch-made gumbo and jambalaya, authentic po’ boys on Gambino’s French bread, chargrilled oysters, redfish, alligator and hot, hand-crafted beignets with chicory coffee – just like you’d find in the French Quarter.
A full bar program will roll out shortly after the restaurant opens, featuring signature cocktails like a Cajun Mule, Garden District Spritz and Voodoo Magic, plus beer and wine.
And I know what you might be thinking: Is this going to be “real” New Orleans food served right here in Almost Heaven?
Although time will tell how well Workman and team deliver on that promise, I sat down with him a few months ago and was very impressed with his vision. Over the course of an hour, he passionately shared how opening a restaurant like this has been a longtime dream of his; how he was putting all of his heart, soul and savings into it; and how he plans to use authentic Louisiana ingredients and recipes to make sure guests experience “the real deal” when they walk in the door.
“Bourbon Street is coming,” he said, “so get ready to let the good times roll, Charleston-style!”
I’m ready for the ride.
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Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at wvfoodguy@aol.com.