Cozumel Express will soon take over Graziano’s space in downtown Charleston

Cozumel Express will expand to take over the former space of Graziano's Pizza in downtown Charleston

Fairways Prime wine dinner offers plenty of delights and surprises

I called this one and now it’s official. Downtown Charleston’s Cozumel Express is expanding to take over the space previously occupied by Graziano’s Pizza next door.

After hearing a rumor to this effect over the weekend, I decided to do a little “boots on the ground” investigative reporting by popping in Saturday afternoon for lunch and a margarita or two.

Huevos Rancheros at Cozumel Express

You know, call of duty and all.

During that delightful siesta, the manager on duty confirmed that the Mexican cantina at 241 Capitol St. had acquired the space Graziano’s vacated on June 30 after a decades-long run in business. (Other Graziano’s locations remain open.)

The former pizzeria is being remodeled to become a second dining area for Cozumel through an open archway connecting the two spaces inside. Paper has been placed to cover Graziano’s windows and construction of the new space should begin soon.

Although no official timeline has been announced, the manager told me Cozumel hopes to open the new space in early 2026 – hopefully around Valentine’s Day or so.

I love hearing that, because my stealth visit this weekend reminded me how much I enjoyed this spot when I first reviewed it after opening in February 2022. Offering a dimly lit, cool cantina vibe – and a menu that’s slightly different than many Mexican restaurants in town – Cozumel Express is a nice fast-casual oasis downtown.

During this recent visit, the chips and salsa were fresh, my margaritas were refreshing, a plate of huevos rancheros was richly satisfying and the savory pinto beans served on the side are easily the best in town.

Not only that, but the service was great and prices were reasonable. Can’t beat that.

• IF YOU GO: Cozumel Express at 241 Capitol. St. in downtown Charleston is open from 11 a.m. Monday-Thursday and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. For more information, call 681-265-0570 or visit the restaurant’s Facebook page. 

Fairways wine dinner surprises

Wow, what a fun time I had at last Thursday’s “Judgement of Paris” blind wine-pairing dinner at Fairways Prime at 3706 Teays Valley Rd. in Hurricane.

Beef, potatoes and carrots at Fairways Prime

Based on the real blind tasting that shocked the wine world back in 1976 – and was immortalized in the Hollywood film “Bottle Shock” – the event offered guests an elegant five-course dinner paired with six of the American wines that beat their French counterparts during that now-infamous competition in Paris.

But the catch of the night was we also didn’t know what wines we were drinking and scoring until the bottles were revealed at the end of our meal.

So fun!

My favorite white wine of the night ended up being Freemark Abbey Chardonnay (which paired nicely with a goat cheese mousse with fig jam, honey and toasted pistachios) although guests chose Chalone Chardonnay as their favorite.   

My favorite red was easily Stag’s Leap Cabernet and the group agreed. I’d drink this bold and balanced wine with anything, but it was even more stellar paired with beef tournedos topped with Sauce Perigoundine and shitake mushrooms alongside Boursin-stuffed potatoes and silky roasted carrots.

Wines were revealed after the meal at Fairways

It was a memorable night all around, but here’s a moment I’ll especially never forget.

After sipping each wine, guests completed a scoresheet judging them from a scale of 1 to 5 on body, aroma, color and taste. I did that, as requested, but off to the side of each ballot (just for kicks) I also wrote down exactly which wine I thought each disguised bottle was.

Once all bottles were revealed, host and wine expert Bunny McComas silenced the crowd of 50+ guests and said, I kid you not: “I don’t know this person, but where is Steven Keith?”

I seriously hid my face with my hands, while several fingers pointed in my direction. She went on to tell the group that I had written down exact guesses for each bottle and, even to my surprise, I had gotten all but one of them correct in the final round of scoring.

I was super embarrassed. I was incredibly proud. But mostly I was extremely thankful. That sure could’ve gone a lot differently had I missed them all. Whew!

Congrats to Bunny, Fairways chef-owner Osh Assi and guest chef Ian Patrick Archer for a fantastic evening.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at wvfoodguy@aol.com.