It’s as if a simple explanation would put their minds at ease, or at least help them make sense of the losses. And in my opinion, there really is a simple explanation: The restaurant business is brutal, y’all, and it has only gotten more difficult since COVID.

Food and supply costs have skyrocketed, good help is hard to find (and keep) and many people post-pandemic simply don’t eat out as much as they used to.

The rash of recent restaurant closings has been sudden and sad, don’t get me wrong, but they’re not caused by any underlying local problem here. Restaurants in cities across the country are facing the same business challenges.

In the case of Tidewater Grill and The Chop House – both of which closed without notice last week – they were owned by a national company that could no longer justify years of financial losses at both places.

In the case of Bridge Road Bistro, which will host its final dinner service this Saturday, its owner was ready to move on to new challenges and have time to enjoy the hard-earned successes of her labor.

Can you really blame either of them? I can’t, as much as I hate to see these places go.  

So for those of you who have been asking, there you have it. I don’t think there’s anything “wrong” with Charleston or its still fairly vibrant restaurant scene. No smoking gun, no alarming drop in the economy.

I believe most people still appreciate good food, friendly service and the locally owned businesses that provide both. But if they don’t start putting their money where their mouths are, so to speak, there will be more beloved restaurants closing their doors.

Bridge Road Bistro closes with grace

When the decision was made to close South Hills mainstay Bridge Road Bistro, owner Sandy Call said there was no way she was going to do that without taking care of her staff first.

In a TV interview last week, she said she remembered when places like The Pitch of Kanawha City, Tidewater and Chop House did that and she thought it was a terrible way to treat people who she considered (and called) part of her “Bistro family.”

So Sandy reached out to local restaurant owners and was proud to get all of her employees placed in new jobs once the restaurant celebrates its final curtain call this Saturday night.

That act of kindness – and the unbelievable outpouring of support she has received from customers, fellow restaurant owners and the community itself – is a testament to the quality of her character.

Sandy always managed the Bistro with dignity and grace, which is just how she’s closing this chapter of her life now. Very well done!

Italian Grille closes in Teays Valley

With all the chatter surrounding Bridge Road Bistro’s closing, somewhat lost in the news this week was that the longtime Italian Grille located at the sprawling Putnam Village Shopping Plaza has apparently closed as well.

It was once a popular restaurant for old-school Italian eats, but former fans say new ownership struggled to maintain that success and both quality and crowds had been dwindling.

The doors have been locked for a few weeks, there’s no answer when calling and Facebook is full of posts about its demise.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

I recently stopped by to try a few of the new items and was immediately reminded why I dig this place so much. Reminded, but not surprised.

I mean, how many sports bars do you know that are led by a two-time James Beard Finalist chef? Paul Smith’s partnership in that popular pub at Shawnee Sports Complex between Dunbar and Institute continues to pay delicious dividends.

One of my favorite new items is the zesty corn ribs with serrano ranch, candied jalapenos and queso fresco. For those who are unfamiliar, this trendy “it” dish of the moment is made by slicing full cobs of corn into smaller slabs that are then grilled, seasoned and/or sauced.

The other dish I dug is a Chicago braised beef sandwich with spicy giardiniera that looks plain at first sight, but is anything but. A soft hoagie bun is stuffed with moist, seasoned, thin-shaved beef that nearly melts in your mouth with each bite.

There’s also a new BLT, pimento grilled cheese sandwich, deviled egg salad sandwich, cast-iron shrimp scampi, beet burger and apps like edamame with sweet Thai chili sauce, buffalo cauliflower with herbed buttermilk dip, buffalo chicken dip and spinach dip.

Every Thursday night at The Pitch now brings a new chef’s dinner special, with recent offerings like prime rib with mashed potatoes and creamed corn; shrimp carbonara with bacon, corn, peas, tomato, egg and parmesan; a salmon burger with pickled red onion; and a salmon cake salad with spring mix, spinach, carrots, cucumbers and roasted peppers in a strawberry champagne vinaigrette.

And that returning pizza I mentioned? That’s The Greenhorn, a gloriously messy pie piled high with green tomatoes, pimento cheese, bacon, pickled red onion and a mozzarella-cheddar blend drizzled with serrano ranch.

It – and the new menu items I’ve tried so far – are so, so good.

• IF YOU GO: The Pitch of WV at 2947 Fairlawn Ave. at Shawnee Sports Complex in Dunbar is open from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday. For more information, call 304-205-4017, visit www.thepitchwv.com or check out the restaurant’s Facebook page.

Tidewater & Chop House closing is the end of an era

Much has now been said about this week’s sudden, permanent closing of Tidewater Grill and The Chop House, two iconic restaurants at Charleston Town Center that had been serving regional guests for the past 39 and 22 years, respectively.

Most people seemed shocked (or at least saddened) by the news, while others said they saw it coming based on factors they swore led to their demise.

Rumors were rampant. The parent company went belly-up! Corporations don’t care about smaller markets! The mall quadrupled their rent! Food costs got out of control! They can’t hire enough workers! The food and service aren’t as good as they once were!

Some of those rumors were just that, although a few of them probably played at least a small role in what I’m sure was a tough decision. And yes, as a food critic, I do believe the food and service quality at both had fallen to unacceptably inconsistent levels of late, which is tough to bounce back from.

The real scoop, according to President and CEO Kevin Gudejko of restaurant parent company Mainstreet Ventures, is that both restaurants had been losing thousands of dollars since the pandemic and the company could no longer wait on promised changes to the mall in the hopes of bringing business back.

"We waited as long as we could hoping that some of the changes promised — like new tenants and hotels — would materialize," Gudejko told the Charleston Gazette-Mail in a news story first published online Monday night. With both leases at the mall expiring this week, he said it was finally time to pull the plug.

Regardless of the reason, or how you feel about the restaurants themselves, there’s no doubt this is the end of an era in Charleston.

One of the mall’s original flagship restaurants, Tidewater was THE place you wanted to take out-of-town guests back in the day and a popular spot to enjoy your free birthday meal each year. And long before the days of 1010 Bridge, Noah’s Restaurant, Bridge Road Bistro, Bricks & Barrels and others, The Chop House was one of the city’s few “upscale” spots reserved for special occasions and expense accounts.

I’ve had stellar and sub-par meals at both places through the years, for sure, but I’ve also collected lots and lots of good memories along the way.

And for that, I’ll miss them both.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

After a short closure to move from an open-air barbecue joint to a brick-and-mortar building across town, Phat Daddy’s on Da Tracks has reopened in its new location along 6th Avenue on Charleston’s West Side.

In addition to the restaurant’s already popular barbecue ribs, brisket, pork and chicken – which you can get on sandwiches, bowls and platters, along with fried fish, salmon cakes, shrimp and steak with hearty sides – they’re also now open early Monday-Saturday offering an all-new breakfast menu.

You can dig into eggs, toast and grits or home fries, plus either bacon, sausage or shrimp. You can also try a breakfast bowl or sandwich with those toppings and more, including turkey bacon, beef or corned beef hash. Breakfast sides include oatmeal, grits, home fries, French toast, toast and fruit.

And if you’re feeling more lunchy than brunchy, you can even get fried chicken livers, salmon cakes or fried whiting or catfish. Yep, for breakfast!

During a ribbon-cutting ceremony last week, Charleston Mayor Amy Goodwin helped Owner/Operator Octavia Gordon and a small crowd of supporters celebrate the new venture.

“We appreciate everyone who was patient with our new staff in our new space,” Gordon posted after the event. “We were all under so much pressure, but we made it through. We appreciate all the compliments, complaints and constructive criticism. I promise you we will get better.”

A few days later, she was still soaking it all in.

“This is what a dream come true looks like. When the hard work pays off and you’re surrounded by your family, friends and community. When you’re doing something you know would make your creator proud. Thank you so much, Charleston! We can’t wait to serve you!”

Sounds like they’re already off to a great (new) start.

• IF YOU GO: Phat Daddy’s on Da Tracks at 1634 6th Ave. in Charleston is open from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday-Thursday and from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday-Saturday. For more information, call 304-982-5020, visit www.phatdaddyswv.com or check out the restaurant’s Facebook page.

WV Corner Kitchen closes to the public

In a surprise announcement on Facebook, Charleston’s popular hidden gem WV Corner Kitchen announced it was “closed until further notice” and thanked customers for their support, saying “it has been a pleasure cooking for you.”

While that certainly sounds pretty permanent, chatter stirred up immediately debating whether it was a temporary or long-term situation for the small spot on Bigley Avenue known for its home-cookin’ and keto-friendly options.

Rumors were plentiful, I’ll tell you, and I heard everything from they’re just taking a vacation to doing some planned remodeling to making repairs from storm damage to retiring from the restaurant business entirely.

So of course, I went straight to the source.

Owners Mike and Barb King told me that the closure is indeed temporary and that they just have other business interests that need their attention right now. They explained the restaurant is “very demanding” and they both just needed a break from it for a while.

They are, however, still accepting limited catering gigs for groups of 25 or more. They can be reached at 304-545-3573.

Chicken and dumpling cook-off in Clay

The Clay County High School Band Boosters are hosting a Chicken & Dumpling Cook-Off next Saturday, April 27, at a “Meet the Candidates” craft bazaar starting at 3 p.m. at Maysel Park in Clay.

Trophies will be awarded for Judges’ Choice, People’s Choice and Best Theme, and money raised will help benefit the school’s music programs.

The registration fee to enter is $25 and contestants must sign up by April 25. For more information on the rules and to register, call 304-993-3914 or email blueandgoldmusicboosters@gmail.com.

There’s a food frenzy on social media

There’s no question many of us are social media-ing in record numbers these days, and it’s no surprise (at least to me, anyway) what type of content is increasingly one of the most sought-after on those channels.

Food and recipes, baby. Food and recipes.

After surveying 1,000 Americans to collect their preferences on social media use, the language learning app Preply discovered that after health and wellness topics, cooking and baking make up the number two topic users search for most on various social platforms.

What’s more, a whopping 78% of those respondents said they actually learn how to cook through all that social searching.

Of those who are seeking culinary-related information, 90% are searching for easy recipes, 84% for cultural foods, 69% for budget-friendly recipes and 29% for bread making.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

After initially raising money to help repair and reopen Dairy Winkle, owner Kerry “Paco” Ellison decided late last year to sell the 10-year-plus business instead.

Larobi’s owner James “Junior” Gilpen swiped it up and spent several months significantly rebuilding and renovating the space, which only consisted of four walls and a floor when they took possession of it. In addition to a new layout and décor, there’s also a completely new kitchen and equipment.

This Larobi’s will be managed by Danielle Collins, who also worked at Dairy Winkle for five years.

Originating in St. Albans, Larobi’s is famous for its original “Big O” pizza, a gloriously messy cacophony of pepperoni, salami, ham, ground sausage, mushrooms, green olives, green peppers, onions and hot banana peppers on thin crust sliced in long rectangular slices.

The new Campbells Creek location opened during the last week of March and will be serving pizzas and pizza breads, plus assorted sandwiches including steak, ham-and-cheese and grinders.

Larobi’s of Campbells Creek at 126 Campbell’s Creek Dr. is currently open from 3 to 9 p.m. Tuesday-Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday, noon to 10 p.m. Saturday and 2 to 8 p.m. Sunday. The restaurant is closed on Mondays.

Please note the dining room closes one hour before the restaurant closes every night, but the drive-through remains open for pickups. For more information, call 304-926-1212.

Tricky Fish reopens for the season

Spending spring break in beautiful Hawaii jump-started me to a summer state of mind, which just so happened to coincide with the seasonal opening of Charleston’s own funky beach bar and grill.

The East End’s Tricky Fish reopened for the season in late March, touting a refreshed menu that includes traditional apps like nachos, buffalo shrimp, wings, chicken tenders, pretzel bites, fried mushrooms and cheese sticks, along with beachy bites like hush puppies with honey butter and an oyster basket.

You can also get a few soups, salads, quesadillas, burgers or tacos stuffed with chipotle chicken, al pastor pork carnitas, shrimp or mahi with various sauces.

On the sandwich front, there’s “Big Fish” haddock, crab cake, honey butter fried chicken, pork BBQ with coleslaw, hot bologna, a BLT, hot dog, grilled cheese or Reuben and Rachel options, plus shrimp or catfish po-boys, Philly cheesesteak, a club, French dip or wraps.

Located at 1611 Washington St. E. a block from the West Virginia State Capitol, Tricky Fish is currently open from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday-Wednesday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday-Saturday. For more information, call 304-344-3474 or check out the restaurant’s Facebook page.

West Virginia’s favorite craft beer is …

Last week we dove into craft cocktails and mocktails. This week, it’s beer.

To mark National Beer Day this past Sunday, online betting platform Casino.ca released the results of a nationwide survey of beer drinkers that found the craft beer market grew by 13.2% last year – and is projected to hit $140 billion this year.

On a state level, it also found that …

• West Virginians didn't follow the crowd and was the only state to choose Kentucky Brunch Brand Stout as their #1 craft beer brand

• Edmund Fitzgerald Porter from Cleveland is their #2 favorite 

• West Virginia’s favorite type of craft beer is lager

• And 97% of West Virginia respondents drink craft beer, with 80% choosing it over other alcoholic beverages 

Just like last week’s “research” (heavy on the air quotes) saying West Virginia’s favorite cocktail is the Moscow Mule, I seriously doubt the validity of these local favorites.

But they’re interesting to read, nonetheless. Cheers!

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

Fancy cocktails have enjoyed a similar trajectory in recent years, popping up everywhere from swanky steakhouses and boujee bistros to your local sports bar and grill.

What more, their explosion in popularity helped usher in a whole new appreciation of creative libation combinations. Fruity and fabulous, spicy and seductive, tart and herbaceous, savory and sweet. You can sip those combinations and more at many places now – in all their tajin-rimmed, lychee-kissed, rosemary-spiked, high-octane glory.

But there’s a growing number of Americans who want to enjoy those unique flavors without the undesirable after-effects alcohol leaves behind. The “Rise of the Mocktail” is here.

To jump on that trend, Kita Modern Japanese hired a professional food-and-drink consultant to roll out a new menu of zero-proof cocktails now available at its Southridge restaurant.

The new drinks were developed with the help of Jonathan Tilley, a hometown Charleston boy who worked at NGK Spark Plugs before moving away to become an actor and stuntman in the entertainment industry.

He also worked as a bartender at upscale restaurants in Orlando and Atlanta before moving back to West Virginia.

Tilley told me it’s been exciting to work with Kita on this growing mocktail trend, but quite challenging as well. Just as with cocktails – perhaps even more so – it takes a lot of practicing and perfecting to craft an appealing mocktail with flavors big enough that customers won’t miss, well, what is missing.

One of his secrets is using zero-proof liquors that are made without ever having alcohol in them, rather than most brands that remove the alcohol during processing. He believes the former process provides a cleaner, fresher taste with each drink.

After getting the chance to try Kita’s first four mocktails last week during another stellar dinner there with the fam, I’d have to say I agree.

Could I tell they weren’t made with boozy alcohol? In most cases, yes. They didn’t pack that initial punch I enjoy in a nice stiff drink. But were they light, refreshing and delicious? Also yes!

I loved the “Oolong for You” with zero-proof tequila, lychee oolong tea, peach syrup and lemon juice, and featuring a healthy pour of ginger beer the “Not So Stormy” – with its zero-proof rum, lime and mint – was the closest tasting to its boozy inspiration.

We really enjoyed the bright flavor profile of the “Peach Margarita” with zero-proof tequila, peach syrup, lime and housemade sour mix, but it was the one that least mimicked the original. As a fresh and fruity drink it’s nice, but it needs a little more zing (maybe the lift of more lime or tangier sour mix) to add enough heft to make it drink like a “drink.”

On the other hand, the “Pina Colada” with zero-proof rum, pineapple juice and crème of coconut was a hit BECAUSE of its lightness, providing the intoxicating combination of the tropics without the intoxicating liquor or the thick, heavy consistency that sits so heavy after a traditional colada or two.

They were all worthy pairings with some of our favorite Kita dishes like the crispy Hanabi rice cake with spicy tuna, scallions and masago; the Mountain Momma with crab, avocado, spicy mayo and eel; sweet soy-glazed pork belly on tonkatsu grits and crispy onions; and pan-seared, garlic-butter salmon topped with lemongrass pesto.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again here:

Kita consistently provides some of the best food, drinks, service and atmosphere anywhere.

Located at 2815 Mountaineer Blvd. at Southridge, Kita Modern Japanese is currently open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5-10:30 p.m. Friday, noon to 10:30 p.m. Saturday and noon to 9 p.m. Sunday. For more information, call 304-205-5200 or check out the restaurant’s Facebook page.              

West Virginia’s favorite cocktail is …

From mocktails to cocktails, here are the results of a recent national survey that I’m sharing with a healthy shot of speculation.

I was definitely slacking on the job when I missed National Cocktail Day on March 24, but I’ll mark it now by passing along the results when sports betting site BetVirginia.com analyzed Google search volume for each state to determine the most popular cocktails in all 50 of ’em.

Based on those findings, they claim the top three cocktails in the Mountain State – in order – are the Moscow Mule, the Espresso Martini and the Manhattan. While all three are mighty fine drinks, I find it difficult to believe those are the most craved and consumed cocktails in West Virginia.

It’s constantly reported that the venerable Margarita is America’s most popular cocktail, but it appeared at the top of only one state list (and was in the top three drinks for only eight states) in BetVirginia’s rankings.

I’m calling a foul.

Nationwide, the Manhattan was the run-away favorite in their survey, followed by an Old-Fashioned, Martini and Cosmo, with nothing else really coming close.

Others scoring fewer points include the aforementioned Margarita, plus the Bees Knees, Whiskey Sour, Sarerac, Mai Tai, Paloma, Negroni, French 75, Aperol Spritz, Sidecar, Mojito and Penicillin.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

On the heels of the three new Mexican restaurants I’ve revealed over the past month, I’ve now learned that La Roca plans to open a third regional location at the former site of Top Spot Country Cookin’ at 7139 Sissonville Dr.

That beloved homestyle diner closed last spring after 37 years in business and the building is now being remodeled to become La Roca’s newest restaurant.

It will join two other locations just outside the casino at Nitro Marketplace and at the entrance to the Shops at Trace Fork at Southridge.

A sign out front announces the new La Roca is coming in Sissonville, but there’s no word on an opening date just yet.

Frank’s Pizza purchases, remodeling The Grill

On the heels of last week’s news about a new Sergio LugoMata restaurant coming to the old Books & Brews on Charleston’s West Side, it appears the owner of popular Frank’s Pizza in Montgomery has also purchased The Grill just down West Washington Street.

The new owner is currently remodeling the existing restaurant space, with plans to offer favorite dishes from both restaurants on The Grill’s new menu when it reopens in the near future.

Stay tuned here for more details!

1010 Bridge hosts special cookbook dinner

The Junior League of Charleston is partnering with a local restaurant and James Beard-nominated chef to offer a specially crafted dinner menu full of classic Charleston dishes that have been elevated for modern tastes.

The third-annual “Modern Mountain Measures” dinner returns to 1010 Bridge Restaurant in South Hills on May 5 with seatings at 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. that day.

The three-course prix fixe dinner features new twists on classic recipes featured in the Junior League of Charleston’s popular fund-raising cookbooks Mountain Measures and Mountain Measures: A Second Serving, published in 1974 and 1984 respectively.

The menu created by Chef Paul Smith will include:

A salad of arugula, fried feta, mandarin oranges, toasted almonds, honeycomb and a citrus-herb vinaigrette, inspired by “Mandarin and Lettuce Salad” from Mountain Measures, submitted by Mrs. Craig M. Wilson.

Appalachian roasted chicken with lemon-herb risotto, roasted spring vegetables and white wine jus, inspired by “Chicken with Herbs & Wine” from A Second Serving, submitted by Marta D. MacCallum.

Soy-glazed pressed tofu, mushroom dashi, sauteed edamame, snap peas and pickled vegetables, inspired by “Vegetable Casserole” from A Second Serving, submitted by Joellen A. Kerr.

Chocolate mousse bomb with mixed berries and honeysuckle anglaise, inspired by “Chocolate Mousse” from A Second Serving, submitted by Bavarian Inn and Lodge.

The meal, which costs $100 through April 19 or $115 thereafter, will also include passed hors d’oeuvres and a pomegranate sparkling drink. Proceeds will benefit the Junior League of Charleston, a nonprofit women’s volunteer organization established in 1923 to help build a better community.

Producing cookbooks featuring regional favorites and family recipes was a common fundraiser for Junior League chapters across the country starting in the 1950s. As such, these cookbooks have become cultural treasures that preserve the culinary heritage and community spirit of their respective regions.

For more information or to purchase tickets, visit https://bit.ly/mountainmeasures.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

Word on the street is that the owner of Sergio’s Cucina Italiana & Steaks in Hurricane and Guadalajara Modern Mexican is the one who will be moving into the space – a rumor that seems pretty likely since said owner (Sergio LugoMata) shared Bullock’s post with two “winking” emojis.

There’s no official word on whether the new restaurant will be a second location for Guadalajara or Sergio’s – or something entirely different – but a few sources have told me it’s supposed to be another Sergio’s Italian & Steak, which opened in Hurricane to mostly positive reviews late last year.

Stay tuned here for more details about one of Elk City’s newest restaurants!

Green Chili Shootout re-brings the heat

The Green Chili Shootout at Capitol Market returned with a bang this past Saturday.

Or maybe I should say it came back with a slam, since Saturday’s cookoff ended with a two-hour “Market Mayhem” wrestling event put on by Regatta Pro Wrestling.

Before things heated up in the ring outside at Center Court, more than 40 professional, amateur and corporate teams sliced, diced, simmered and served nearly 100 gallons of chili as guests sipped beer and wine while grooving to the tunes of DJ EJ under sunny skies.

Oh, what a day!

I served as one of the judges who helped pick the event’s ultimate winner – Lynn Berkebile from Vermilion, Ohio – who will now go on to represent Capitol Market at the International Chili Society’s World Chili Cookoff later this year.

Good luck, Lynn!

Second- and third-place pro winners were Jessica Ahlgrim and David Mallory, respectively, while Phill Williams of Johnnie’s Fresh Meat Market won the team category. Muffin’s Meat Shack won the People’s Choice Award and Mountaineer Food Bank was named Best Booth.

Sarah’s Bakery offering Easter pre-orders

Just in time for brunches and baskets, Sarah’s Bakery in South Hills has released a special menu of treats you can pre-order for this year’s Easter festivities.

In addition to breakfast offerings like cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing, salted caramel pecan sticky buns and a variety of quiches, they’re offering a “brunch box” filled with a whole quiche, six assorted pastries and a fruit salad that serves 4-6 people.

You can also reserve whole pies (lemon meringue, apple crumb, blueberry buttermilk, graham cracker, pecan, coconut and peanut butter) and Easter-decorated cakes (lemon raspberry, vanilla, carrot, coconut cream and chocolate truffle).

Pickup times for pre-orders are 4-6 p.m. on Friday, March 29, and 2-4 p.m. on Saturday, March 30. To place your order, stop in the bakery in the South Hills Shops, call 304-343-2253 or email sarahsbakerywv@gmail.com.

Has restaurant tipping gotten out of control?

Nearly 75% of Americans believe tipping has gotten completely out of control, according to new research just released by WalletHub.

The survey asked consumers about a variety of topics, such as when people believe they should have to tip, whether they feel pressured to do so and how they think gratuities should be split among restaurant staff.

Here are some of the other highlights revealed …

Nearly 65% of customers believe a tip is something you should give when you feel like it, instead of something you always have to give. (On a similar note, 50% say they often leave a tip because they feel pressured to do so, not because they felt they had good service.)

More than 25% of Americans admit they tip less when they are prompted to give a suggested amount, while 22% claim to tip more in those instances.

“More and more types of establishments are starting to ask for tips, and suggested tip amounts are growing higher, so it’s understandable that people are frustrated,” said WalletHub analyst Cassandra Happe, adding that resentment gets especially high when these pressures are paired with ongoing inflation.

According to the survey, nearly 60% feel that businesses are replacing employee salaries with customer tips.

And, no surprise here, nearly 80% of those polled believe that automatic service charges should be banned.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

It’s a nice and cozy space.

The Pita Pit’s previous fast food-style interior has been transformed into a dimly lit Asian hideaway complete with a sushi counter, colorful lanterns and more than a dozen tables and booths situated around the dining area.

A simple menu offers a trio of appetizers (crab Rangoon, spring rolls and gyoza) plus a number of hibachi-style meals and combos featuring steak, chicken, salmon, shrimp, scallops, crab and vegetables.

Nearly 20 sushi choices include traditional options like California, Philly, shrimp tempura and spicy tuna, along with a handful of special rolls that are almost all deep-fried combinations of either crab, shrimp or salmon blended with avocado and cream cheese.

I swung by for dinner over the weekend and sampled the restaurant’s namesake Oishii sushi, a large deep-fried roll of crab, avocado and cream cheese topped with spicy crab and tempura crunchies.

It was OK, but the deep-frying made the rice super dense and the whole roll really heavy on the tummy. I prefer sushi of the non-deep-fried variety, I guess, so the natural flavors of the roll’s fresh ingredients shine.

I also tried the steak and salmon hibachi combo dinner, which was also just OK. The steak was a little tough (they didn’t ask me how I wanted it cooked) and the salmon was a tad dry as well, although pretty flavorful.

The teriyaki glaze and vegetables on the plate were good, but the fried rice was most definitely not. There were no flecks of vegetables or eggs or any seasoning in it, so it looked and tasted just like plain brown rice, but with a slightly off-putting greasy flavor. Not my jam.

The salad was passable, but the ginger dressing was very watery.

My meal was not bad – just not great – and I’ve heard from others who love Oishii, both on the truck and in this new spot. Like truly, madly, deeply love.

To each his own, I say. These folks couldn’t be any nicer, service was great and I’m glad to hear they have loyal fans.

• IF YOU GO: Oishii at 4222 MacCorkle Ave. SE in Kanawha City is open during Ramadan (from now through April 8) from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday-Friday, 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday and noon to 8 p.m. Sunday. After Ramadan (starting on April 9) the restaurant will be open until 9 p.m. daily. For more information, call 681-280-7171 or visit the restaurant’s Facebook page.

J.Q. hosting sushi-making class

Speaking of Asian eats, J.Q. Dickinson Salt-Works in Malden is offering a sushi-making class on Friday, March 29, where attendees will not only learn how to craft iconic rolls, but also take home their own sushi board, mat and chopsticks.

Carver Culinary Center’s Chef Mandy Gum will lead the class in a hands-on session where they’ll make California, spicy tuna and Philadelphia rolls, plus nigiri. During the process, guests will learn the secrets to perfecting sushi (sticky) rice, how to select the proper ingredients and master the delicate art of rolling the finished product.

Doors open at 5:30 p.m. and the event kicks off at 6 p.m. that evening. The cost is $90 per person, which includes the class and all supplies. A cash bar with sake sangria, beer and wine will be offered, so you can sip while you roll!

Although I’ll be out of town for this sushi-making class, I’ve taken one before and it was super fun and informative. For more information or tickets to the class at J.Q., visit their Facebook page.

WV spots named “The South’s Best”

Four West Virginia spots have made Southern Living’s 2024 edition of “The South’s Best” awards honoring the South’s top cities, restaurants, travel stops and more. The winners were chosen based on voting from more than 20,000 of the magazine’s readers.

Morgantown finished #20 in “South’s Best Cities on the Rise,” a list topped by another one of my favorite towns: Wilmington, NC.

Other Mountain State locations winning “Best in West Virginia” honors were Rolling Smoke BBQ in Charleston for “Best BBQ,” The Vandalia Co. in Charleston for “Best New Restaurant” (even though it’s not new, which is odd) and Harpers Ferry for “Best Small Town.”

Dairy Bar opens, for real this time

The new South Charleston Dairy Bar really is open now, y’all. I swear.

Although it was closed when I drove by twice last week (and several messages still haven’t been returned) I heard from several readers who’ve already visited the once-popular spot on the corner of D Street and 2nd Avenue a few blocks down from the Mound.

I hear a younger couple has reopened the spot and readers have sent me mixed reviews so far, with some swearing the hot dogs are as good as they used to be and others saying they pale in comparison.

But they’ve only been open a week, folks, so let’s get these entrepreneurs a chance to get up and running before anyone writes them off. It’s way too early for that.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

This past Saturday’s speakeasy-themed murder mystery dinner kicked off the series with an evening of suspense alongside passed apps of crab Rangoon with sweet chili sauce, smoked cheese, pickled vegetables and hummus, followed by a buffet loaded with wagyu meatloaf, chicken with Parmesan and tomato-butter sauce, roasted root vegetables, garlic-butter whipped mashed potatoes and a winter salad.

Coming up next on March 23 is a bourbon and BBQ feast, where each course of the evening’s menu will be paired with a sample of bourbon from West Virginia’s own Smooth Ambler Spirits in Maxwelton.

All tables will be served a basket of house-fried pork rinds with pineapple BBQ seasoning upon arrival, followed by fried cornbread with lime-cilantro crema cotija cheese, paired with Smooth Ambler Contradiction Bourbon

Then comes a BBQ platter with brisket, smoked chicken, smoked sausage and smoked turkey with Alabama white and brown sugar BBQ sauces served with sides of smoked macaroni and cheese, country green beans and creamy broccoli slaw. It will accompany a taste of Smooth Ambler Old Scout Bourbon.

Capping off the evening will be Smokey’s signature bourbon banana bread pudding served with Smooth Ambler Old Scout Rye Port Cask Finish.

On March 30, “Swingin’ with Sinatra” will offer the suits, songs and swagger of Frank Sinatra impersonator Lee Deen crooning old favorites while guests enjoy cocktails and appetizers.

Wrapping up this spring’s special events are the return of the Fire and Ice Festival on April 27, a special Mother’s Day buffet on May 12 and a craft beer festival on June 15.

Also on tap this season, the outdoor adventure resort perched atop the New River Gorge will add pizza at Rendezvous, lunchtime service at the reopened Mill Creek coffee shop, plus revamped menus at Chetty’s, Smokey’s and the stunning outdoor pool.

For more information on any of these events, call 855-379-8738 or visit www.adventuresonthegorge.com.

Not so fast on that Dairy Bar scoop

Fool me once, shame on me. Fool me twice, well, shame on me even more.

After teasing the news that South Charleston Dairy Bar planned to reopen this past weekend, it seems that’s not the case and who knows if and when it ever will at this point.

The popular spot announced a grand re-opening in 2022 that never transpired, but I heard from two previously reliable sources that its doors would finally reopen on March 1 of this year. I wasn’t able to reach the owners to confirm that, but once I saw other social posts breaking the same “news,” I thought for sure it was really happening this time around.

I heard from so many of you who were super-excited after the announcement, so my sincere apologies for getting your hopes up. If it’s any consolation, the restaurant did share my post announcing the reopening – which surely has to be some sign of a comeback, right?

Needless to say, after a couple of false starts you won’t hear me utter the words “South Charleston Dairy Bar” until I’m standing inside the reopened joint myself.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

The popular ice cream and fast-food joint had previously teased a grand re-opening in the summer of 2022, but that never came to fruition. However, social media lit up over the weekend with the news that its doors are opening once again.

Located a few blocks from the Mound at 120 D St. in South Charleston, the dairy bar serves a variety of hot dogs and hamburgers, plus corn dogs, BBQ sandwiches, chicken strips, chicken sandwiches, grilled cheeses, hot bologna, BLTs and more, along with fries, onion rings and other assorted fried sides.

And, of course, ice cream!

You can end your meal on a sweet note – or just swing by to slay your sweet tooth – with ice cream, milkshakes, sundaes or parfaits.

Stay tuned to The Food Guy for the official word on new business days and hours once the place reopens.

Reader recipe requests

It’s been a while since I’ve shared any reader recipe requests, so I’m coming at you with two different ones this week.

“I enjoy reading your articles and just enjoyed the one on Restaurant Week,” Ken Wilcox writes.

“We used to really enjoy the Cuban at Capitol Roasters Café on Summers Street. We have had lots of Cubans since they closed, but none are even close. Is there a possibility you can obtain the recipe?”

Oh, how I miss that place! Located on the corner of Quarrier and Summers streets where Black Sheep Burrito & Brews now stands, Capitol Roasters was one of Charleston’s first independent coffee shops after Taylor Books.

In addition to offering good coffee and a great, large lounge for dining, drinking, listening to music, working or just hanging out, Capitol Roasters was also known for exceptionally delicious food.

There were breakfast and lunch wraps stuffed with all sorts of good things – and a handful of other sandwiches, too – but they were most known for their hot-and-gooey paninis.

The Alaskan Salmon Melt with lemon and smoked mozzarella cheese. The Chicken Athena with feta, roasted red pepper and sun-dried tomato pesto mayo. The Florentino with oven-roasted turkey, baby spinach, marinated artichokes, roasted red pepper and Havarti cheese. The Chicken Chutney with gorgonzola spread and apple-pear chutney.

And that spicy little Cuban number with pulled-pork tenderloin, thinly sliced ham, jack cheese, dill pickles, cracked pepper and chipotle mayo that was so, so good.

I actually reached out to a friend of mine who used to work there but, alas, he did not have the recipe, Ken.

Hopefully the description above from their old menu, though, will help get your culinary creative juices flowing.

And from Cuba to Italy …

“The only dish I really, really loved at Fazio’s was their Italian pepper steak, but they took it off their menu a few years ago,” writes Kimberly Keys Fisher. “I have tried several times to recreate it without success. Since Fazio’s is now selling their restaurant, do you think you might be able to convince them to provide you with that recipe? I and many others would be very grateful!”

Although the Fazio family holds its recipes pretty close to the vest, maybe there’s someone out in Food Guy land who might share a little insight into how that dish came together?

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

Located at 480 Railroad Ave. since the summer of 2021, Phat Daddy’s offers a menu of appetizers like honey butter or honey sriracha wings and empanadas, plus sides like fresh-cut fries, onion rings, tater tots, seasoned cabbage, white cheddar mac-and-cheese, baked beans and baked potato.

Sandwiches include smoked pork, pulled chicken, beef brisket or rosemary ribs on a ciabatta roll; chopped steak-and-cheese or chopped chicken with onions and peppers; fried whiting or catfish on white bread; and a quarter-pound beef hot dog with homemade chili and white cheddar cheese.

Specialty bowls feature marinated grilled shrimp over basmati rice with pico de gallo and avocado cream; grilled steak with steamed broccoli; blackened fish topped with seasoned cabbage; and smoked chicken with mac-and-cheese topped with scallions.

(Or you can build your own veggie bowl for a choice of options.)

And entrees will get you fried or grilled shrimp, fried whiting, fried catfish, salmon cakes or ribs – sometimes in multiple combinations – with hearty sides.

Phat Daddy’s well remain open at its current location along the tracks through this Saturday, then will close to take a break and begin the move exactly 1.5 miles west to their new digs. Hours this week are 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday and 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Even more Mexican on the way

After last week’s news of Cozumel Cantina & Grill on the River opening in Jefferson and Plaza Maya getting ready to open a second location in Kanawha City, here’s even more scoop on the Mexican food front.

Sources say yet another Los Amigos will soon open a third – yes, third – location where The Pitch of Kanawha City was located outside the old Kanawha Mall.

So yes, just like coffee shops in Seattle, it looks like the Kanawha Valley will soon have a Mexican restaurant every few blocks. 

Best dish from FeastivALL

During a fundraising feast where guests dined on the likes of tuna tartare wontons, Tuscan bean soup, braised wagyu beef cheek Bourguignon and strawberry shortcake, who knew it would be a Humble little salad that stole the show?

Prepared by the Lewisburg restaurant’s owner, Emily Isaac, The Humble Tomato’s unassuming plate featured baby arugula, shaved Brussels sprouts, candy-striped beets, roasted fennel, toasted pine nuts and Parmesan Reggiano dressed with a tomato vinaigrette.

And it was amazing.

Since this was dinner benefiting the arts, let me put it this way. The different tastes and textures provided by the roasted fennel, toasted pine nuts, earthy beets and tangy dressing combined to create a beautiful symphony of satisfying flavors.

Bravo!

Savannah’s closes in Huntington

I was sad to recently hear that one of my favorite restaurants in Huntington suddenly closed last month after 27 years in business.

Although I hadn’t been back in a few years, I always included Savannah’s in my list of the top restaurants in the state anytime someone asked.

Tucked in a charming circa-1903 house in Huntington – peppered with small dining rooms throughout with a bistro area added in later years – the cozy place always provided fantastic food, wine and service every time I visited, without fail.

It was one of those restaurants that understood what it meant to offer a great overall dining “experience” – which goes beyond just the food – and they did that very well.

The original owner of Savannah’s sold the restaurant in 2020 to Tara Dunn, who had worked there for the previous 20 years, and Dunn reopened it as Savannah’s Bistro that same year.

“We love you, we love you, we love you,” Dunn said in a Facebook post announcing the closure. “This has been a wonderful endeavor and every single person who has supported myself and all of our staff will always have a special place in my heart. I will treasure the memories, celebrations, tears and laughter we have shared. Cheers to the next adventure!”

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

The new Cozumel Cantina & Grill on the River has opened in spacious new digs where Mountain Pie on the River used to be between South Charleston and St. Albans, which is the nicest way possible to say “Jefferson.”

And while I’ll get to the new restaurant’s food and service in just a minute, it really doesn’t matter. This place is absolutely going to make bank.

Why? It’s a Mexican restaurant, which the masses love. It has tons of space, including multiple dining rooms and bar areas, both inside and out. And it’s located on the riverfront, with a large outdoor deck that will be super popular from spring through fall.

That’s several ingredients for success right there, so as long as the food and service are decent they’ll be fine. And the food and service are far above decent.

Nearly a year after signing the lease – and after months of renovations – the new space has been spiffed up nicely and looks much fresher than the tired-looking spot Mountain Pie abandoned in 2022.

The parking lot was full when I pulled up this past Saturday evening, and the place was hopping inside, but there were still plenty of tables with more people strolling in by the minute.

I tucked into a riverfront table and started sipping a ginormous house margarita (smooth and delicious, by the way) while diving into the menu.

There are traditional favorites like fajitas, tacos, burritos, quesadillas, nachos and the like, although some of them come in more unique combinations than you see at most run-of-the-mill Mexican joints.

There are also a few different options like lobster tacos, Potato Papa Al Pastor (baked potato stuffed with pastor meat, butter, rosemary, black pepper, cheese, onion and cilantro), Pescado Apache (marinated spiced tilapia on a bed of broiled cactus) and the signature Cantina Molcajete (grilled chicken, steak, shrimp and chorizo with roasted peppers, potatoes, green onions, cactus, jalapeño, avocado, roasted corn cob, queso Oaxaca and housemade molcajete salsa).

Desperate to eat healthy (ish?) after the dining out extravaganza that was Charleston Restaurant Week, I was leaning toward options featuring seafood and vegetables. I especially had my eye on this grilled salmon and sweet-chili shrimp situation that sounded really nice.

But then I saw a Gringo Burrito pass by my table on the way to another and I went all “When Harry Met Sally” on my server. “I’ll have what she’s having!” Because that sizzling skillet with a cheesy gut-bomb on top was too tantalizing to pass up.

The large tortilla was stuffed with steak, chicken, rice and beans, then topped with crumbled chorizo and grilled chunks of pineapple on a pool of bubbling-hot ranchero salsa.

It was good, but I quickly realized it would be way too much food for me if I tried to eat it all, which of course I was about to do. So I had it boxed up to go (midnight snack!) and caved in to try that salmon and shrimp dish I couldn’t get out of my mind.

Although there was far too much creamy sauce smothering the salmon (which didn’t look at all like the photo the restaurant had teased on Facebook, unfortunately) the salmon underneath it was quite good.

And the shrimp – glistening with a sweet and slightly spicy glaze – were plump and delicious. Like, really delicious. The grilled Mexican corn cob served on the side was a nice touch as well, and I especially liked how it was heavy on grilled flavor and lighter on the goopy sauce that ruins most Mexican street corn.

I couldn’t finish all of that entrée either (Sunday lunch!) but I don’t regret ordering a second dinner one bit. You know, for research purposes.

• IF YOU GO: Cozumel Cantina & Grill on the River at 5930 MacCorkle Ave. in St. Albans is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. For more information, call (681) 265-0412 or visit the restaurant’s Facebook page.

Plaza Maya opening second location in Kanawha City

Speaking of Mexican restaurants, popular Plaza Maya in Kanawha City is about to open a second location in – none other than – Kanawha City.

That’s right, the original location at 3112 Chesterfield Avenue (home to the best chicken tortilla soup on the planet, by the way) is currently building out a second location called Plaza Maya II that will open in the old La Caretta storefront at 5790 MacCorkle Ave. SW.

That's right next door to Fujiyama Japanese Steakhouse across from the old Kanawha Mall.

There’s no word yet on a grand opening date, but I drove by the new location on Saturday and saw lots of construction activity going on inside.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

A few restaurants told me their crowds were a little down this year, The Volstead Room had to be evacuated due to smoke one evening and Sam’s Uptown Café unexpectedly had to cancel dinner service on the last night after a refrigerator died.

I also heard my fair share of horror stories from diners throughout the week recounting particularly bad dishes or service at one place or another. But by the end of the week, feedback was overwhelmingly more positive than not.

In fact, let me share this one observation with you and then I’ll tell you why.

“My wife and I have taken part in Restaurant Week every year since it started,” reader Jack Cipoletti wrote. “It's become a wonderful tradition in our city and we owe a big thank you to Dickinson Gould for the idea and to you for playing a large role in promoting and sustaining it. I have to tell you, this year has been the best we've experienced.”

He went on to describe food and service that “could not have been better” at Bridge Road Bistro and a first visit to Fernbank Public House “that won’t be our last” thanks to outstanding food and service.

“I had the Goat Burger with a house-made bacon jam topping at Fernbank,” Cipoletti said. “Wow. I told our server that if they bottled the bacon jam for sale, I would buy it. I was told they’re working on it. My wife had a sandwich of hot honey-glazed fried chicken with house-made pimento cheese. Hers was equally wow.”

The reason I singled out his comments were because the two restaurants he mentioned (Bridge Road Bistro and Fernbank) also seemed to receive the most praise from readers who reached out to me throughout the week. I didn’t visit either place for Restaurant Week, but am glad to hear so many glowing reviews.

As for my Restaurant Week adventures, we enjoyed flawless meals at Ristorante Abruzzi and 1010 Bridge, a pretty solid effort at Soho’s, a decent experience at Tidewater, and both highs and lows at Dem 2 Brothers.

The wedge salad at Dem 2 was very underwhelming and our strawberry cheesecake wontons were small, flat, hard triangles that didn’t have a bit of cheesecake inside them. I suspect it seeped out when they were fried, but I saw photos the next night that showed thick, fat wonton tubes that I bet were stuffed with creamy goodness. Too bad we missed those.

However, Dem 2 also served two of my favorite dishes of the entire week.

The brisket sushi appetizer featuring savory brisket, Asian citrus slaw and yum-yum sauce over a crispy rice cake was fantastic.

And that sticky short rib they featured? That sticky short rib! Simply beyond.

The Chinese 5 spice-braised short rib – coated in slightly charred, richly flavored, ooey-gooey glaze – served over purple cabbage with fried rice was easily my best bite of the bunch.

So cheers to another great Charleston Restaurant Week. There’s only 51 weeks to go until the next one!

And if you can’t wait that long, both Ichiban and The Volstead Room announced they are extending their Restaurant Week menus through this coming Saturday for folks who couldn’t get in last week.

FeastivALL releases beer and wine pairings

From one major annual food celebration to another, the wine and beer pairings for next Saturday’s FeastivALL fundraiser have been announced leading up to the Feb. 17 FestivALL fundraising dinner at the University of Charleston.

I’ve already shared the full FeastivALL food menu in all its mouthwatering detail, which you can check out again at www.festivallcharleston.com/feastivall. Now, here’s a brief summary of the libations that await with each course.

• Appetizer: Tuna tartare wontons prepared by Chef Seth Samples of the University of Charleston will be paired with Hawk Knob Salty Beach Hard Cider and Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc.

• Salad: A baby arugula, Brussels sprout and beet salad made by Emily Isaac of The Humble Tomato will accompany High Ground Brewing’s Ymir the Creator Farmhouse Ale and William Hill Chardonnay.

• Soup: Tuscan bean soup from Chef Tim Urbanic of Bop & Nana’s will arrive alongside Jackie O’s Endless Echoes Hazy IPA and Thread Count Red Blend.

• Entree: Braised wagyu beef cheek Bourgogne prepared by Chef Paul Smith of 1010 Bridge is paired with Bridge Brew’s Shays Revenge Oatmeal Stout and Quilt Napa Cabernet.

• Dessert: Shortcake with West Virginia maple sugar strawberries and bourbon cream made by Chef Brian Magliochette of CB Culinary Service will accompany Screech Owl Wild and Wonderful Strawberry Blonde and Lamarca Prosecco.

Tickets for the event are $130 per person for general admission and $175 for VIP access, which includes an early private reception and other perks. They can be purchased while they last! at www.festivallcharleston.com/feastivall.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

The two West Virginia chefs named semi-finalists for the prestigious James Beard Awards as “Best Chef: Southeast” last week weren’t the only home-grown talents to get a little national love.

Lost in the shuffle of that big announcement was the fact that a North Carolina restaurant owned by another hometown boy, Executive Chef William “Billy” Dissen, was nominated for an even bigger James Beard Award as “Best Restaurant.”

And not just best in the Southeast, but in the United States. That’s huge.

A graduate of Charleston Catholic High School and West Virginia University, Dissen went on to graduate with honors from the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park in New York, then apprenticed at The Greenbrier under the late Certified Master Chef Peter Timmons.

After moving to the “other” Charleston in South Carolina, Dissen met another native West Virginian: Donald Barickman, owner and chef of the beloved Magnolia’s Restaurant there. He honed his skills at Barickman’s fine-dining restaurant, Cypress, then studied restaurant management at the University of South Carolina before planting roots in Asheville.

Dissen now owns and leads the kitchen at Asheville’s The Market Place Restaurant, which was among the top 20 named as semi-finalists for the nation’s best restaurant. A mainstay for nearly 45 years, The Market Place has grown to be one of the top sustainable (and delicious) farm-to-table restaurants in the region.

And now maybe the country.

Although I already knew about Dissen’s West Virginia connection, my inbox filled up the morning of the James Beard announcement with locals wanting me to spread the word.

“My son is married to Chef William Dissen’s sister,” reader Stephen Crislip wrote, “and the good story behind this is that Bill Dissen and Paul Smith (nominated in another category this year) grew up in Charleston, trained together and have remained good friends and colleagues. Two local guys knocking it out in national culinary arts is a good West Virginia story in any category.”

I couldn’t agree more.

And when I reached out to Dissen to congratulate him, he gave me some good news for local fans back home as well. He said he and Chef Paul are planning some fun events in Charleston this summer for the launch of Dissen’s new cookbook: Thoughtful Cooking: Recipes in the New South.

Beckley restaurant makes Yelp’s Top 100

Speaking of big honors, a popular hangout in Beckley was also just named one of Yelp’s “Top 100 U.S. Restaurants for 2024.”

The Dish Café made the honorable list after the online restaurant review site’s food-loving users rated their favorite places to eat from coast to coast, with those results then analyzed by both scores and volume to determine the winners.

“For a decade, the local partners behind The Dish Café have poured their passion into an eclectic menu with unique flavor combinations and chef-driven daily specials,” Yelp said in its roundup.

“From the bone-in ribeye with fresh Halpern’s Angus Beef to the falafel salad with house-made tahini sauce and lemon vinaigrette dressing, each dish is prepared with fresh, local ingredients.”

Added Yelper Kathy L: “The salmon was out-of-this-world fresh, with a wonderful glaze. The blackened shrimp, mmm-mmm, 10 stars! The blondie gluten-free dessert is to die for.”

And while The Dish just slid in at #100 on the list, keep in mind there are more than 1 million restaurants estimated to be in operation in America right now. Pretty cool.

Charleston Restaurant Week rolls along

We’re now smack-dab in the middle of Charleston Restaurant Week and yours truly has already dined at two participating restaurants this week, with four more reservations still to go.

What a great time to be alive!

I’ll include a roundup of my favorite dishes and experiences next week, but would love to hear about yours in the meantime. What have you loved so far? Let me know using the contact information below.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

Whereas the annual event used to offer guests their choice of three-course menus for a set $30 price point across the board, restaurants now can set their own price, with most up in the $35-45 range.

But Adelphia Sports Bar & Grille on Capitol Street in Charleston and Barkadas at the Fort on Cantley Drive at the bottom of Fort Hill are moving prices in the other direction this year by dropping the cost of their three-course meals to $24 and $25, respectively. That’s a sweet deal for a nice appetizer, entrée and dessert.

Adelphia comes in the lowest, where $24 will get you a side Greek or specialty salad; Greek potatoes or dolmathes (grape-leaf rolls) with a choice of Pastitsio (Greek lasagna), Greek-style cod on rice or Greek stuffed peppers; and baklava cheesecake.

For just a buck more, $25 at Barkadas provides you with a house salad or charred Brussels sprouts; a glazed salmon bowl with Thai peanut sauce or beef bistek bowl with rice or noodles; and either crème brulee cheesecake or a salted caramel chocolate brownie.

As with all Charleston Restaurant Week locations, be sure to get your reservations in advance.

The Olive Tree offers special menu

Speaking of Charleston Restaurant Week, The Olive Tree Café on Second Avenue in South Charleston is once again offering its own similarly inspired special menu at the same time. From Jan. 30-Feb. 3, guests there can also piece together their own $45 meal from some fantastic-sounding options.

Appetizer options include spinach naan crostinis with loaded hummus; Valbreso feta whipped with West Virginia honey and topped with pecans; or Trinidadian chicken curry bisque.

For dinner (all with a choice of sides) you can choose a Black Angus petite filet and crab cake with spicy remoulade; charcoal-roasted swordfish with Mediterranean spice-infused butter; a “Tour of Near East” platter featuring kibbeh, kafta kebab and stuffed grape leaves served on naan with hummus and baba ghanoush; or a vegetarian iron skillet roasted lion’s mane mushroom steak with shallots in a red wine reduction.

Desserts are either baklava cheesecake bananas foster; beignets with three-berry compote and vanilla bean gelato; or chocolate decadence cake drizzled with three-berry compote, Ghirardelli chocolate and Turkish coffee crem fraiche.

The Olive Tree always impresses, so this is another fine option for diners next week.

FeastivALL releases this year’s menu

While Charleston Restaurant Week has been getting lots of love of late, another big annual winter foodapalozza is just weeks away as well.

Organizers of FeastivALL have released the five-course meal that will be served at the upcoming fund-raising dinner at the University of Charleston on Saturday, Feb. 17.

Raising much-needed money that supports the arts year-round through festivals, after-school programming, in-school programming and more, FeastivALL offers a five-course meal with wine and beer pairings, live entertainment, a live auction, an online auction, a VIP reception and more.

And unlike similar events, this one offers the added twist of pitting beer against wine to see which pairs with the evening’s food the best. Better yet, it’s the evening's guests who get to vote and determine the winner!

In honor of 2023 James Beard Award Finalist Chef Paul Smith, who has supported the FeastivALL fundraiser since its inception, each course of this year’s meal will have elements inspired by the James Beard cookbook.

“Charleston and the surrounding region have a rich culinary scene and FestivALL is so fortunate to partner with amazing chefs for our FeastivALL fundraiser,” said FestivALL Executive Director Mackenzie Spencer. “We look forward to a wonderful night of food, fun and, most importantly, fundraising in support of the arts.”

Speaking of that wonderful food, here it is!

• Appetizer: Tuna tartare wontons – Chef Seth Samples, University of Charleston

• Salad: Baby arugula and shaved Brussels sprout salad with candy-striped beets, roasted fennel, toasted pine nuts and Parmesan Reggiano finished with tomato vinaigrette made with DiTrapano Olive Oil – Emily Isaac, The Humble Tomato

• Soup: Tuscan bean soup featuring DiTrapano Olive Oil and James Beard-inspired chicken broth – Chef Tim Urbanic, Bop & Nana’s and formerly Café Cimino

• Entree: Braised wagyu beef cheek Bourgogne with herb garlic Yukon Gold Smashed Potatoes and seasonal vegetables – Chef Paul Smith, 1010 Bridge

• Dessert: James Beard-inspired shortcake with West Virginia maple sugar strawberries and bourbon chantilly cream – Chef Brian Magliochette, CB Culinary Service in Pittsburgh

Tickets are $130 for general admission and $175 for VIP access to a pre-dinner reception and more. They may be purchased at www.festivallcharleston.com/feastivall.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

As you probably already know, 16 participating local restaurants will offer special three-course menus from Jan. 30 through Feb. 3, giving guests the chance to choose their own appetizer, entrée and dessert for one set price ranging from $24-$48.

Established by Buzz Foods to help boost business during what is typically a slow time in the restaurant industry, Charleston Restaurant Week is celebrating its 10th year offering this tasty culinary celebration to local diners.

Many restaurants will book up quickly now that menus are released, so guests are encouraged to make reservations as quickly as possible. Here are the ones I may be calling first!

Pre-Restaurant Week Awards

• Most Exciting Menu: I must admit, I’m most intrigued by the unexpected Southern-Asian-Italian fusion menu from – are you ready for this? – Dem 2 Brothers & A Grill. Brisket sushi with crispy rice and Asian citrus slaw. A sesame-ginger wedge salad with crispy wontons. Sticky Chinese 5 spice-braised short ribs with housemade fried rice and purple cabbage. Pork belly creamy Parmesan risotto. I am so here (or there) for it.

• Most Creative Ingredients: The winter salad at 1010 Bridge Restaurant comes with a cacophony of fresh vegetables, including “sweet potato hair” and “beet dust.” I’d expect nothing less from James Beard finalist Chef Paul Smith.

• Most Mouthwatering Description: The Lookout wins with whoever whipped up these tasty teases: Veal Marsala medallions pounded, floured and pan-fried over Parmesan risotto with candied Brussels sprouts and shitake-bacon Marsala sauce; and a 10-oz. French pork chop grilled with bourbon butter and served over roasted red potatoes with candied Brussels sprouts and brown sugar apple chutney. Man, those sound good.

• Best Restaurant Partnership: Fernbank Public House is teaming up with the local Mohawk Cheesecake food truck to offer cheesecake with a choice of berry compote or salted caramel drizzle. Although I haven’t tried Mohawk yet, owner/baker Justin Cavender has been telling me he’s making some “next level stuff” I really need to try. Here’s my chance.

• Biggest Unknown: I don’t know how good their food is yet, but newcomer The Volstead Room looks promising with items like bleu cheese fritters, lumpia spring rolls, pork belly sliders and gochujang chicken thigh with mango slaw.

• Best Appetizers: Soho’s at Capitol Market sold me on their baked Alouette brie in a cast-iron skillet topped with cherries, praline hazelnuts and hot honey with toasted ciabatta bread; plus the butterflied baked jumbo shrimp stuffed with crab. Sam’s is in the hunt as well thanks to Parmesan-encrusted potatoes with crispy pork belly, crème fraiche and cilantro; plus a lobster bisque with jumbo lump crab meat, infused olive oil and buttered crouton.

• Best Entrees: Also featured on the restaurant’s regular menu, 1010 Bridge’s Dijon dill-glazed salmon with potato soufflé and citrus beurre blanc is phenomenal. Black Sheep’s Mexican BBQ taco platter featuring smoked brisket and Texas hot links with a choice of hatch chile mac-and-cheese, braised kale, street corn potato salad and burnt-end baked beans sounds like a winner. And those aforementioned sticky Chinese short ribs from Dem 2? Yes, please!

• Best Desserts: Bridge Road Bistro’s flourless chocolate torte with espresso whipped cream is a sweet treat right up my alley. The Volstead’s maple ricotta mousse with candied pecans is, too. And if done well, the simple lemon berry cream mascarpone from Bricks & Barrels sounds divine.

• Best Overall Menu – Runners Up: I’ve already praised Dem 2, which is definitely in my top three. I’m also adding Soho’s for following up the apps above with a cider-brined bone-in pork chop with rosemary roasted potatoes and broccolini; three-cheese manicotti topped with fresh lobster and lobster cream sauce; vanilla bean brulee with crispy oat crust; and a two-layer strawberry cake with cream cheese filling, dark chocolate ganache and fresh whipped cream.

• Best Overall Menu – Winner: For my money, from the first course to the last, Ristorante Abruzzi is serving up the best overall menu this year – and you know Chef Chase Collier will deliver on quality. That’s why I’ve listed Abruzzi first below, followed by the rest alphabetically.

And while I’m especially looking forward to the standouts I just highlighted, I truly wish I had the time – and constitution – to enjoy all 16 Charleston Restaurant Week menus. Well done, folks.

Charleston Restaurant Week Menus

Ristorante Abruzzi ($45)

Appetizers

• Winter panzanella salad with baby lettuce, roasted butternut squash, red onion, croutons, dried cranberries, shaved Parmesan and maple balsamic

• Hernshaw Farms mushroom arancini with alfredo and basil pesto

Entrees

• Braised short rib and ricotta-stuffed ravioli with San Marzano tomato and short rib Bolognese, gremolata and shaved Parmesan

• Pesto-crusted rainbow trout with Parmesan risotto, charred broccolini and Romesco sauce

Desserts

• Crostata di Fragola Italian strawberry cobbler with Ellen’s vanilla ice cream and strawberry caviar

• Chocolate panna cotta with espresso syrup and vanilla bean Chantilly

1010 Bridge ($45)

Appetizers

• Tuscan white bean and sausage soup

• Winter salad with carrots, radish, dried currants, sweet potato hair and beet dust with pomegranate vinaigrette

Entrees

• Dijon dill-glazed salmon with potato soufflé, local vegetable medley and citrus beurre blanc

• Cast iron-seared skirt steak with herb and garlic smashed potatoes, winter vegetables and red wine jus

Desserts

• Pumpkin cheesecake with carrot cake crust

• Chocolate silk pie with brown butter graham crust and salted caramel

Adelphia Sports Bar & Grille ($24)

Appetizers

• Side Greek salad

• Side specialty salad

Entrees

• Pastitsio (Greek lasagna) and garlic toast with choice of Greek potatoes or dolmathes (grape-leaf rolls)

• Greek-style cod served on a bed of rice with choice of Greek potatoes or dolmathes; Greek-stuffed peppers

Dessert

• Baklava cheesecake

Barkadas at the Fort ($25)

Appetizers

• House salad with citrus vinaigrette dressing

• Charred Brussels sprouts

Entrees

• Glazed salmon bowl with Thai peanut sauce

• Beef bistek bowl with choice of rice or noodles

Desserts

• Creme brulee cheesecake

• Salted caramel chocolate brownie

Black Sheep Burrito ($40)

Appetizers

• Smoked artichoke dip with toasted naan

• Smoked dry-rub tajin wings with maple “unranch” sauce

Entrees

• Mexican BBQ taco platter featuring smoked brisket and Texas hot links with tortillas and choice of two sides (hatch chile mac-and-cheese, braised kale, street corn potato salad, burnt-end baked beans

• Mexican BBQ taco platter featuring smoked pork ribs and Texas hot links with tortillas and two sides

Desserts

• Homemade blackberry cobbler

• Banana custard parfait

Bricks & Barrels ($45)

Appetizers

• Caesar salad

• Loaded potato

Entrees

• Black-and-bleu 4 oz. fillet topped with Cabernet demi-glaze with mashed potatoes and vegetable medley

• Blackened swordfish topped with mango salsa with garlic-Parmesan rice and grilled asparagus

Desserts

• Lemon berry cream mascarpone

• Churros

Bridge Road Bistro ($45)

Appetizers

• Mandarin orange salad with spring mix, sliced mandarins, dried cranberries, almonds and ginger-soy dressing

• Roasted red pepper bisque with chive creme fraiche

Entrees

• Smoked airline chicken with sweet cornbread, collard greens and Alabama white BBQ sauce

• Beef tenderloin medallions with whipped Yukon Gold potatoes, bone marrow butter and sautéed asparagus

• Miso-glazed baked salmon with long-grain wild rice and fried Brussels sprout leaves

• Stuffed black-bean pepper with red pepper strips and sliced avocado on a bed of rice

Desserts

• Blueberry cobbler cheesecake

• Flourless chocolate torte with espresso whipped cream

Dem 2 Brothers & a Grill ($45)  

Appetizers

• Brisket sushi with crispy sushi rice topped with brisket, Asian citrus slaw and yum-yum sauce

• Sesame-ginger wedge salad with house-made ginger dressing, carrots, toasted sesame seeds and crispy wonton strips

• Pacho nachos with fresh fried pork skins topped with pulled pork, caramelized onions, nacho cheese, BBQ sauce and crispy banana peppers

Entrees

• Sticky short ribs featuring Chinese 5 spice-braised short ribs served with housemade fried rice and purple cabbage

• Pork belly creamy Parmesan risotto

• Meat-and-sides sampler featuring your choice of four meats with four housemade sides

Desserts

• Strawberry cheesecake wonton deep-fried and stuffed with mascarpone and strawberry compote

• Classic Southern-style banana pudding    

DT Prime ($45)

Appetizers

• Signature house salad

• Caesar salad

Entrees

• Certified Angus beef prime sirloin with garlic mash and seasonal vegetables

• North Atlantic salmon with garlic mash and seasonal vegetables

Desserts

• New York cheesecake

• Chocolate chalet cake

Fernbank Public House ($30)

Appetizers

• Cranberry and apple salad with pumpkin seeds over mixed greens and housemade black-cherry vinaigrette

• Fresh panko-rolled and mozzarella pearls with house red sauce

Entrees

• The Goat signature blend burger with housemade bacon jam, goat cheese served with lettuce, tomato, red onion and mayo on Charleston Bread brioche and fries

• Pimento and panko-crusted hot honey fried chicken with house pimento cheese and hot honey on a Charleston Bread baguette with fries

Desserts

• Mohawk cheesecake with a choice of berry compote or salted caramel drizzle

• Layered chocolate butter cake topped with chocolate mousse and chocolate ganache

Ichiban Pan-Asian ($35)

Appetizers

• Half-order of Almost Heaven maki

• Side salad with creamy ginger dressing

Entrees

• Mongolian filet stir-fried in a spicy savory oyster sauce with bok choy and mixed vegetables with white or fried rice

• Bamboo chicken with peppers, onions, bamboo shoots and crispy fried chicken sautéed in General Tso sauce with cilantro and white or fried rice

Desserts

• Key lime tart

• New York cheesecake with raspberry-matcha crème

Sam's Uptown Café ($40)

Appetizers

• Parmesan-encrusted potatoes with crispy pork belly, crème fraiche and cilantro

• Lobster bisque with jumbo lump crab meat, infused olive oil and buttered crouton

Entrees

• Garlic chicken and mushrooms over polenta with basil, balsamic and gorgonzola

• Pork carnitas taco in roasted tomato sauce with guacamole and corn pico

Desserts

• Tiramisu with fresh raspberries and powdered sugar

• Chocolate salted-caramel brownie topped with chocolate salted-caramel ice cream

Soho's at Capitol Market ($48)

Appetizers

• Butterflied jumbo shrimp baked and stuffed with crab

• Baked Alouette brie in a cast-iron skillet topped with brisure cherries, praline hazelnuts and hot honey with toasted ciabatta bread

Entrees

• 12 oz. cider-brined bone-in French-cut pork chop with rosemary roasted red-skin potatoes and herb-buttered broccolini

• Manicotti stuffed with ricotta, Romano and mozzarella, topped with fresh lobster in a lobster cream sauce

Desserts

• Vanilla bean brulee with macerated Madagascar vanilla pods and crispy oat crust topped with torched raw sugar

• Two-layer strawberry cake with cream cheese filling and strawberry pieces, covered in dark chocolate ganache, strawberry coulis and fresh whipped cream

The Lookout ($35)

Appetizers

• Caesar salad

• Cup of homemade chili with chips and sour cream

Entrees

• Veal Marsala medallions pounded, floured and pan-fried over Parmesan risotto with candied Brussels sprouts and shitake-bacon Marsala sauce

• 10-oz. French pork chop grilled with bourbon butter and served over roasted red potatoes and candied Brussels sprouts and topped with brown sugar apple chutney

Desserts

• Peanut butter pie on graham cracker crust filled with Amy’s peanut butter cream filling and topped homemade whipped cream

• Chocolate cake layered with chocolate mousse and chocolate icing topped with chocolate chips

Tidewater Grill ($43)

Appetizers

• Shrimp empanadas with sriracha sour cream

• Fried feta with cherry and Cognac glaze

Entrees

• 9-oz. beef sirloin with onions, mushrooms and Cabernet reduction

• Lightly blackened cod with crab risotto, sauteed broccoli and carrots

Desserts

• Tiramisu

• Pineapple upside-down cake with cherry-pineapple rum glaze

The Volstead Room ($35)

Appetizers

• Blue cheese fritters with roasted red pepper mayo

• Lumpia spring rolls with sweet-and-sour sauce

Entrees

• Pork belly sliders with BBQ and coleslaw

• Gochujang chicken thigh with mango slaw

Desserts

• Chocolate icebox cake

• Maple ricotta mousse with candied pecans

For more information on Charleston Restaurant Week, check out the group’s Facebook page or contact the individual restaurants above.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

From Jan. 30 through Feb. 3, guests at each place can enjoy a set-price three-course meal by selecting their own appetizer, entree and dessert from a choice of options on special menus that will only be featured that week.

Meal prices range from $24 to $48 and include a creative and mouthwatering selection of dishes. Many restaurants quickly book up once menus are released, so guests are encouraged to make reservations as quickly as possible.

Established by Buzz Foods to help boost business during what is typically a slow time in the restaurant industry, Charleston Restaurant Week is celebrating its 10th year offering this tasty opportunity to local diners.

So without further ado, here are this year’s Charleston Restaurant Week menus:

1010 Bridge ($45)

Appetizers

• Tuscan white bean and sausage soup

• Winter salad with carrots, radish, dried currants, sweet potato hair and beet dust with pomegranate vinaigrette

Entrees

• Dijon dill-glazed salmon with potato soufflé, local vegetable medley and citrus beurre blanc

• Cast iron-seared skirt steak with herb and garlic smashed potatoes, winter vegetables and red wine jus

Desserts

• Pumpkin cheesecake with carrot cake crust

• Chocolate silk pie with brown butter graham crust and salted caramel

Adelphia Sports Bar & Grille ($24)

Appetizers

• Side Greek salad

• Side specialty salad

Entrees

• Pastitsio (Greek lasagna) and garlic toast with choice of Greek potatoes or dolmathes (grape-leaf rolls)

• Greek-style cod served on a bed of rice with choice of Greek potatoes or dolmathes; Greek-stuffed peppers

Dessert

• Baklava cheesecake

Barkadas at the Fort ($25)

Appetizers

• House salad with citrus vinaigrette dressing

• Charred Brussels sprouts

Entrees

• Glazed salmon bowl with Thai peanut sauce

• Beef bistek bowl with choice of rice or noodles

Desserts

• Creme brulee cheesecake

• Salted caramel chocolate brownie

Black Sheep Burrito ($40)

Appetizers

• Smoked artichoke dip with toasted naan

• Smoked dry-rub tajin wings with maple “unranch” sauce

Entrees

• Mexican BBQ taco platter featuring smoked brisket and Texas hot links with tortillas and choice of two sides (hatch chile mac-and-cheese, braised kale, street corn potato salad, burnt-end baked beans

• Mexican BBQ taco platter featuring smoked pork ribs and Texas hot links with tortillas and two sides

Desserts

• Homemade blackberry cobbler

• Banana custard parfait

Bricks & Barrels ($45)

Appetizers

• Caesar salad

• Loaded potato

Entrees

• Black-and-bleu 4 oz. fillet topped with Cabernet demi-glaze with mashed potatoes and vegetable medley

• Blackened swordfish topped with mango salsa with garlic-Parmesan rice and grilled asparagus

Desserts

• Lemon berry cream mascarpone

• Churros

Bridge Road Bistro ($45)

Appetizers

• Mandarin orange salad with spring mix, sliced mandarins, dried cranberries, almonds and ginger-soy dressing

• Roasted red pepper bisque with chive creme fraiche

Entrees

• Smoked airline chicken with sweet cornbread, collard greens and Alabama white BBQ sauce

• Beef tenderloin medallions with whipped Yukon Gold potatoes, bone marrow butter and sautéed asparagus

• Miso-glazed baked salmon with long-grain wild rice and fried Brussels sprout leaves

• Stuffed black-bean pepper with red pepper strips and sliced avocado on a bed of rice

Desserts

• Blueberry cobbler cheesecake

• Flourless chocolate torte with espresso whipped cream

Dem 2 Brothers & a Grill ($45)  

Appetizers

• Brisket sushi with crispy sushi rice topped with brisket, Asian citrus slaw and yum-yum sauce

• Sesame-ginger wedge salad with house-made ginger dressing, carrots, toasted sesame seeds and crispy wonton strips

• Pacho nachos with fresh fried pork skins topped with pulled pork, caramelized onions, nacho cheese, BBQ sauce and crispy banana peppers

Entrees

• Sticky short ribs featuring Chinese 5 spice-braised short ribs served with housemade fried rice and purple cabbage

• Pork belly creamy Parmesan risotto

• Meat-and-sides sampler featuring your choice of four meats with four housemade sides

Desserts

• Strawberry cheesecake wonton deep-fried and stuffed with mascarpone and strawberry compote

• Classic Southern-style banana pudding    

DT Prime ($45)

Appetizers

• Signature house salad

• Caesar salad

Entrees

• Certified Angus beef prime sirloin with garlic mash and seasonal vegetables

• North Atlantic salmon with garlic mash and seasonal vegetables

Desserts

• New York cheesecake

• Chocolate chalet cake

Fernbank Public House ($30)

Appetizers

• Cranberry and apple salad with pumpkin seeds over mixed greens and housemade black-cherry vinaigrette

• Fresh panko-rolled and mozzarella pearls with house red sauce

Entrees

• The Goat signature blend burger with housemade bacon jam, goat cheese served with lettuce, tomato, red onion and mayo on Charleston Bread brioche and fries

• Pimento and panko-crusted hot honey fried chicken with house pimento cheese and hot honey on a Charleston Bread baguette with fries

Desserts

• Mohawk cheesecake with a choice of berry compote or salted caramel drizzle

• Layered chocolate butter cake topped with chocolate mousse and chocolate ganache

Ichiban Pan-Asian ($35)

Appetizers

• Half-order of Almost Heaven maki

• Side salad with creamy ginger dressing

Entrees

• Mongolian filet stir-fried in a spicy savory oyster sauce with bok choy and mixed vegetables with white or fried rice

• Bamboo chicken with peppers, onions, bamboo shoots and crispy fried chicken sautéed in General Tso sauce with cilantro and white or fried rice

Desserts

• Key lime tart

• New York cheesecake with raspberry-matcha crème

Ristorante Abruzzi ($45)

Appetizers

• Winter panzanella salad with baby lettuce, roasted butternut squash, red onion, croutons, dried cranberries, shaved Parmesan and maple balsamic

• Hernshaw Farms mushroom arancini with alfredo and basil pesto

Entrees

• Braised short rib and ricotta-stuffed ravioli with San Marzano tomato and short rib Bolognese, gremolata and shaved Parmesan

• Pesto-crusted rainbow trout with Parmesan risotto, charred broccolini and Romesco sauce

Desserts

• Crostata di Fragola Italian strawberry cobbler with Ellen’s vanilla ice cream and strawberry caviar

• Chocolate panna cotta with espresso syrup and vanilla bean Chantilly

Sam's Uptown Café ($40)

Appetizers

• Parmesan-encrusted potatoes with crispy pork belly, crème fraiche and cilantro

• Lobster bisque with jumbo lump crab meat, infused olive oil and buttered crouton

Entrees

• Garlic chicken and mushrooms over polenta with basil, balsamic and gorgonzola

• Pork carnitas taco in roasted tomato sauce with guacamole and corn pico

Desserts

• Tiramisu with fresh raspberries and powdered sugar

• Chocolate salted-caramel brownie topped with chocolate salted-caramel ice cream

Soho's at Capitol Market ($48)

Appetizers

• Butterflied jumbo shrimp baked and stuffed with crab

• Baked Alouette brie in a cast-iron skillet topped with brisure cherries, praline hazelnuts and hot honey with toasted ciabatta bread

Entrees

• 12 oz. cider-brined bone-in French-cut pork chop with rosemary roasted red-skin potatoes and herb-buttered broccolini

• Manicotti stuffed with ricotta, Romano and mozzarella, topped with fresh lobster in a lobster cream sauce

Desserts

• Vanilla bean brulee with macerated Madagascar vanilla pods and crispy oat crust topped with torched raw sugar

• Two-layer strawberry cake with cream cheese filling and strawberry pieces, covered in dark chocolate ganache, strawberry coulis and fresh whipped cream

The Lookout ($35)

Appetizers

• Caesar salad

• Cup of homemade chili with chips and sour cream

Entrees

• Veal Marsala medallions pounded, floured and pan-fried over Parmesan risotto with candied Brussels sprouts and shitake-bacon Marsala sauce

• 10-oz. French pork chop grilled with bourbon butter and served over roasted red potatoes and candied Brussels sprouts and topped with brown sugar apple chutney

Desserts

• Peanut butter pie on graham cracker crust filled with Amy’s peanut butter cream filling and topped homemade whipped cream

• Chocolate cake layered with chocolate mousse and chocolate icing topped with chocolate chips

Tidewater Grill ($43)

Appetizers

• Shrimp empanadas with sriracha sour cream

• Fried feta with cherry and Cognac glaze

Entrees

• 9-oz. beef sirloin with onions, mushrooms and Cabernet reduction

• Lightly blackened cod with crab risotto, sauteed broccoli and carrots

Desserts

• Tiramisu

• Pineapple upside-down cake with cherry-pineapple rum glaze

The Volstead Room ($35)

Appetizers

• Blue cheese fritters with roasted red pepper mayo

• Lumpia spring rolls with sweet-and-sour sauce

Entrees

• Pork belly sliders with BBQ and coleslaw

• Gochujang chicken thigh with mango slaw

Desserts

• Chocolate icebox cake

• Maple ricotta mousse with candied pecans

For more information on Charleston Restaurant Week, check out the group’s Facebook page or contact the individual restaurants above.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

Joining the fun from Jan. 30 through Feb. 3 this year are Fernbank Public House, the hot new bar-bistro-café on Bridge Road in South Hills, and The Volstead Room, the hip new underground bar on Hale Street downtown.

They’ll be participating alongside Bridge Road Bistro in South Hills, Ichiban on Capitol Street and Soho’s at Capitol Market, all three of which have been with Charleston Restaurant Week since the very beginning back in 2014.

Other returning restaurants this year include:

1010 Bridge, Barkadas, Black Sheep Burrito, Bricks & Barrels, Dem 2 Brothers & A Grill (downtown location only), Ristorante Abruzzi, The Lookout, Tidewater Grill, Adelphia, Sam’s Uptown Café and DT Prime.

During the designated dates, each of these restaurants will be offering special three-course meals where guest can pick their choice of an appetizer, entrée and dessert at a price each restaurant can set.

Barkadas is coming in with the least expensive meal this year at $25, with Fernbank at $30 and Ichiban, The Lookout and The Volstead Room all at $35. Black Sheep and Sam’s are both $40, Tidewater will be $43 and 1010, Bricks, Dem 2 Brothers, Abruzzi, Bridge Road Bistro and DT will be $45. Soho’s tops the list at $48 for a three-course meal. (Adelphia had not submitted their price points by my deadline.)   

While the big reveal of all menus is still to come, I’m starting to get a few sneak peeks of what you can look forward to that week. We popped into Bridge Road Bistro with friends to hear some live music Saturday night and got a glimpse of Chef Joshua Reedy’s Charleston Restaurant Week lineup.

Guests there can start with either a Mandarin Orange Salad with dried cranberries, almonds and ginger-soy dressing over spring greens or the restaurant’s signature Roasted Red Pepper Bisque with chive crème fraiche.

A choice of four entrees includes Smoked Airline Chicken with sweet cornbread, collard greens and white BBQ sauce; Beef Tenderloin Medallions with whipped potatoes, bone marrow butter and sauteed asparagus; Miso-Glazed Baked Salmon with long-grain wild rice and fried Brussels sprout leaves; or a Stuffed Black Bean Pepper with sliced avocado over rice.

Dessert options are a Flourless Chocolate Torte with espresso whipped cream or Blueberry Cobbler Cheesecake.

Stay tuned for more menus next week!

Sumthin’ Good rolls up sumthin’ tasty

A great little dining spot in South Charleston is making waves with its soulful take on a traditional Chinese favorite.

Sumthin’ Good Soul Food at 4837 MacCorkle Ave. SW is now offering “soul food eggrolls” featuring Grandma Cookie’s greens, Mama Fran’s mac ‘n’ cheese and candied yams paired with either pulled pork, brisket or chicken fried to perfection inside a crispy buttery eggroll.

Sign. Me. Up!

Although I haven’t tried these tasty little morsels yet, I’ve been hearing good reports and the photos look delish.

In addition to these new rolls, the restaurant still specializes in a variety of sandwiches and combos featuring soul food favorites like BBQ, baked or Southern-fried chicken, chicken and waffles, pulled pork, fried catfish or whiting, beef brisket, ribs and pork butt.

You can pair them with sides like cooked cabbage, stewed greens, candied yams, mashed potatoes and gravy, cornbread, mac ‘n’ cheese, pinto beans, baked beans or potato salad.

And be sure to leave room for banana cake, peach cobbler, peanut butter cake or sweet wine cake for dessert.

• IF YOU GO: Sumthin’ Good Soul Food at 4837 MacCorkle Ave. SW in South Charleston is open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday-Friday. For more information, call 304-768-0968, visit www.sumthingood.com or check out the restaurant’s Facebook page.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

That means participating restaurants can pick their own price for the special three-course menus they’ll be offering during this year’s event.

For those who are unfamiliar, Charleston Restaurant Week gives local diners the opportunity to enjoy a choice of appetizers, entrees and desserts from unique featured selections at dozens of restaurants around town – usually for a discounted price.

Coordinated by Buzz Foods, the promotion is designed to help boost business at local restaurants during what is typically a slow time of the year between New Years and Valentine’s Day.

This will be the 10th year for Charleston Restaurant Week, although it actually started 11 years ago. (Organizers took a year off during COVID.)  

I’ll be sharing more details – including a list of participating restaurants and their menus – in the coming weeks, so stay tuned. You can also follow “Charleston WV Restaurant Week” on Facebook for updates.

Forget Christmas. For local foodies, THIS is the most wonderful time of the year!

Speaking of restaurants, the new year rang in with announcements from several new ones that will soon open their doors throughout the region. Here’s a brief roundup of just a few of them. 

Crisppi’s Chicken Teases Charleston Location

The announcement of a new Crisppi’s Chicken coming to Charleston has been more divisive than the state’s ongoing Marshall vs. WVU debate. That’s due to wildly mixed reviews of the new location in Huntington, which have created quite the love-or-hate relationship among folks who have tried it.

Although co-owner Randy Moss (he of NFL and Marshall fame) has helped drive positive buzz among his own fans and the larger Herd faithful, the Crisppi’s in Huntington has been generating some of the most unfavorable reviews I’ve seen in a long time citing the restaurant’s mediocre food quality, poor service and overall format.

The restaurant has alluded to dealing with “fake Google reviews,” but there are plenty of real ones casting shade as well.

Not one to only trust online reviews, however, I also spoke to a couple of friends who made the trip down themselves to try the place out.

Granted Crisppi’s just opened and a few fumbles should be expected, but my trusted foodies told me – and I quote – “it was a mess.”

They cited a bizarre concept (fast food with a waiter and no takeout), along with unoriginal fries, only moderately decent chicken, high prices and very long waits.

“It was the most odd restaurant experience of my life,” one of them confided. “I would never go back.”

Another cautionary post came from one of the moderators of a Facebook restaurant review page, saying it was the first negative review he’s ever shared.

No specific location or timeline has been announced for the Charleston location, but I hope it’s after they get their act together in Huntington first.

Hinode Hibachi & Sushi opening in St. Albans

Hinode Hibachi & Sushi Truck will open a new brick-and-mortar dine-in location this February at 78 Olde Main Plaza in St. Albans offering a selection of hibachi entrees, sushi rolls and Asian apps.

The food truck’s owners say they are excited for this next adventure and will post updates on Facebook as things move forward.

New Takaya Buffet coming to Barboursville

Along those same culinary lines, the new Takaya Seafood, Steak Grill & Sushi Buffet is apparently coming to the old Golden Corral location on Route 60 in Barboursville.

Although a “coming soon” sign has been posted there for months, construction work has recently begun in earnest in anticipation of a March opening.

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

When Guadalajara opened its doors in March 2022, there were a fair amount of folks who had the same lukewarm reaction about therer being yet another same-ol’ same ol’ Mexican restaurant in town.

To those folks, I would say: “Not so fast. Have you actually tried it?”

Specializing in authentic cuisine from Sergio’s hometown in Jalisco, Mexico – occasionally fused with a modern twist – Guadalajara does offer the usual queso, guacamole, nachos, tacos, burritos, enchiladas, fajitas and such.

And there’s also the not-as-common chilaquiles, taquitos, seafood ceviche and tortas made with pork, chorizo or ham and cheese.

But I’m most intrigued by the restaurant’s occasional specials, which you certainly can’t find most places.

Those would be handmade tamales stuffed with various goodies, zingy tinga chicken, slow-cooked marinated al pastor pork, richly flavored mole, caldo de abondigas (a Mexican meatball soup), ribs simmered in salsa verde, plus pork pozole rojo, an authentic Mexican stew make with pork, hominy, jalapenos, cabbage and radishes in a smoky chili broth.

The best dish I’ve had there, however, is the bursting-with-flavor carne guisada.

This traditional plate features chopped steak cooked in a housemade tomato sauce with onions, serrano peppers, cilantro and spices. Topped with fresh ripe avocado and queso fresco – complete with tasty sides – the meat reminds me of a rich Italian sauce or stew that’s been simmering on the stove all day so the flavors just build and meld seamlessly.

Guadalajara’s margaritas are on point, sweet treats like churro toffee cake help seal the deal, and both service and quality have been admirable during my few visits.

The restaurant is also a good neighbor, often volunteering food and space to help out in the community.

There’s a lot to like about this little place, so I encourage you to give them a try.

• IF YOU GO: Guadalajara Modern Mexican at 3901 39th St. in Nitro is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday-Saturday and noon to 9 p.m. Sunday. For more information, call 681-217-1694 or check out the restaurant’s Facebook page.

Magazine names top 25 restaurants in WV

In the spirit of year-end lists ranking the Best 5 this or Top 10 that, WV Living magazine named its “25 Best Restaurants” in the Mountain State this past fall.

I was honored to be asked to submit my own nominations, which were combined and vetted with other suggestions before a panel of food lovers and restaurant critics whittled the list down to the 25 esteemed eateries below.

And while my own individual list looked a little different, I appreciate the fact that a group of trusted folks came together to pick their cream of the crop rather than letting a single person make those tough decisions.

So without further ado, I present to you this sweet and savory statewide roundup!

Starting in the state’s capital city, Charleston hotspots 1010 Bridge, Laury’s and Kita Modern Japanese all made the list, with Noah’s Restaurant and Bridge Road Bistro receiving honorable mentions. Down the road in Huntington, 21 at The Frederick and Le Bistro made the top 25, with Savannah’s as an honorable mention. Up in Parkersburg, The Blennerhassett Restaurant made the cut.

Italian restaurants had a good showing with Rocco’s Ristorante in Ceredo joining Muriale’s Italian Kitchen in Fairmont, Julio’s Café in Clarksburg, Stefano’s in Morgantown, plus an honorable mention for Oliverio’s Ristorante in Bridgeport and Morgantown.

Others in the top 25 in the northern part of the state include The Wonder Bar Steakhouse in Clarksburg and Vagabond Kitchen in Wheeling, with Sargasso in Morgantown and Elle & Jack’s in Wheeling as honorable mentions.

Heading over to the Eastern Panhandle you’ve got the Bavarian Inn in Shepherdstown, 9 Dragons in Charles Town, Lot 12 Public House in Berkeley Springs, Farmer’s Daughter Market & Butcher in Capon Bridge, The Guesthouse at Lost River and Stoney’s Whiskey, Wine & Raw Bar in Martinsburg, with the Press Room in Shepherdstown on the honorable list.

Throughout the Potomac Highlands and into the Greenbrier Valley you’ll find The Forks in Elkins, Ish Kitchen at The Billy Motel in Davis, Prime 44 West in White Sulphur Springs and Stardust Café in Lewisburg.

Honorable mentions in these areas went to Appalachian Kitchen at Snowshoe, The French Goat in Lewisburg and The Varsity Club at The Schoolhouse Hotel in White Sulphur Springs.

Southern West Virginia represented with Secret Sandwich Society in Fayetteville, The Dish Café in Beckley and The Vault Downtown in Bluefield.

Looks like I have some travelin’ (and eatin’) to do in the new year!

• • •

Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.